Tough Love Travel

The Artisans of Katchemak Bay

2012-01-30T06:08:00.000-08:00

Down south of Anchorage, at the end of the Sterling highway, on the 4-mile spit of land that reaches deep into Katchemak Bay, you'll find Homer's community of fascinating artists!

There're potters!
A short ferry takes you out to Halibut Cove, an abandoned herring fishing village. After dinner on the stilted deck, stroll the boardwalks to different galleries. You'll find ornamental vases and statuary - but check out these plates! Dishwasher-safe and so pretty, these uneven plates are hand-formed and pressed with local flowers.

There's weaving!
Many years ago, I bought my favorite sweater on the Spit. It is heavy handknit wool, with a large daisy on the front, and a heavy-duty zipper, and hood!

There's jewelry!
Although beautiful jewelry is designed from glacier glass, other artists use fine metals for "wearable art",

and still others make fun, funky pieces, like halibut earbone earrings!

Local craft
You'll meet locals who take regional products, like antlers, and create souvenirs which are both functional and beautiful... like hair combs and one-of-a-kind jewelry! In case you were wondering, these antlers are shed naturally each year by the caribou, and this artist walks the Seward peninsula to collect them for her art!

There're painters, and photographers, too! Credit below goes to Alice Thaggard and Jim Lavrakas, respectively.

For a real touchstone to AK, consider bringing home the craft of Homer!

SLIDESHOW: Travels through Tuscany

2012-01-26T12:10:00.000-08:00

Look beautiful?

Look fun?

Look delicious?

See the whole mouth-watering slideshow here:
Slideshow of Tuscany

Interview with Emma, the Truffle hunting K9!

2012-01-24T14:55:00.000-08:00

Meet Emma, who works at Tartufi Bianconi in southern Umbria.

Q: How did you become a truffle hunting dog?

Well, for starters, I was born a poodle. That’s important – only a few breeds are good for truffle hunting. Farmers also work with german shepherds, Golden Retrievers, and even these funny looking brothers called Belgian Malinois.

Q: Are you scared about being put out of business by a pig?

Actually, I’m a lot easier to fit in the backseat of a car than a pig.. plus im cleaner and smell better!

The inside "pig" story is..

Many truffles produce a scent that mimics a male pig sex hormone. It is for this reason that female pigs have been used historically in Europe to help find truffles. More recently, dogs have become the preferred truffle hunting companion, mostly because they can be trained to find, but not eat the truffles!

Q: In your own words, Emma, tell us exactly what thrills you about this sport, or should we call it a "career"...

The treats! When I’m out truffle hunting with my farmer/master, I smell the booty, and start to dig it up. The things are pretty valuable, though, so the farmer doesn’t want me to eat it.. by mistake! So as soon as he sees me digging, he calls me off. I’ve been taught to roll over, belly up (no idea why this demeaning pose is necessary, but..) and I'd do ANYTHING FOR A TREAT!

It’s just a little bite, but I do this about 25 times each morning, so my overall take is pretty good!

Q: Is truffle hunting seasonal, or do you have a favorite season to “hunt”?

Fall is my favorite! In October and November, there’s the Alba White Truffle – the call is the Precious Whites.

The Winter Black Truffle – sometimes called the Perigord – is harvested all the way thru early March.

The Burgundy, or Summer truffle is not really harvested in summer.. rather in September.

For me it's all the same though -- running, barking, eating...

Q: What special education do you need? Do you have a graduate degree, or need Continuing Ed to stay abreast of the latest trends?

I was trained alongside drug dogs, bomb detection dogs, cadavar dogs, and search and rescue comrades. It was a little scary, and—frankly – I’m glad I landed here on the farm, instead on in the NYPD!

Once a K9 like me enters a truffle training program, he generally receives two to four months of scent training, obedience training, and search work before going out “on the job.”

Q: Do you hunt up other stuff, too – like shoes, or squirrels?

No, I learned the hard way – it’s truffles or nothing! Actually truffles have a unique smell. In fact, each KIND of truffle has a unique smell. I was taught all that in school. So I go after only the REAL mccoy.

Q: Did you watch the "60 Minutes" piece about truffle crimes?

I did, and it was true! I stayed up that night, trying to sort it all out. Since i'm a fully-trained truffle dog, I'm worth about $12,500. But truffles cost $300-$600 PER POUND! I tried to do the math, and compute my REAL value since i weigh about 30 pounds, but it was so confounding, it made me pee on the bathroom rug!

Q: What would you like to tell the many guests and tourists who come to your farm for a visit? (besides to remember a K9 treat for a tip)?

I'd tell them to not leave the farm without doing a cooking lesson. My "Mom" makes truffle-stuffed chicken rolls, shaved truffle over souffle, truffle sauced over tagatelle, and the precious white truffles sauteed in butter!

Q: Do you live in a kennel with other dogs, or in the house with your master?

A kennel? YIKES! No, I have a built-in couch in my farmer’s sunroom, and a chair in the TV room that I’m not happy to share! Plus, I get the middle of the bed, as long as I get there first!

Here I am with the gal who interviewed me. I think she likes me!

SMUGGS: All the latest family fun, in a quaint New England package

2012-01-19T18:50:00.000-08:00

Smuggs -- short for Smugglers Notch,the ski resort cozied onto the north side of Mt Mansfield in northern VT -- has made a decision:

Leave the swanky mountain houses and high speed gondolas ( and the $90/day life tickets) to the other mountains.
Smuggs will charm you with its New England ambiance- down to preserving the green wooden lift chairs- and put all their energy into creating the best family winter playground in the Northeast that's convenient, affordable, super friendly, and bursting with ideas!

Ski or snowboard? There's an entire mountain for beginners, and the only TRIPLE black diamond run in the East!
If that doesn't entice you, then consider that lift tickets are $70 ($55 with discount voucher through local hotels) compared to $90 at their mountain neighbor, Stowe!

Canopy adventures! It's zip lining, alpine style, complete with sky walks and rappelling down trees!

Snowshoe tours- gentle loops for the family or High Elevation Tours up through tHe Notch!
Deer mice and mountain fox footprints- even black bear claw marks running up the beech trees- all tell a story of wilderness life in the Green Mountains that your guides will share with you.

Nordic trails! The whole loop which is groomed daily and which roams through Vermont hardwood forest and along windswept meadows, is around 10K. Dogs are welcome on the trail, and the staff at the Nordic Center can fit you with rentals ($19) as well as suggest routes suitable for all levels of skiers.

Swimming pool and sauna!

Ice skating on the outdoor rink!

Even air boarding! Imagine boogie boarding down a ski run! I'm not sure how you stop, but they run clinics every afternoon at the Nordic Center to teach you all the tricks.

FOOD FIND of the week: The Bakery, in Jeffersonville.
Homemade cinnamon rolls, roasted beet n kale hash with poached eggs, gingerbread waffles, yogurt dishes called Treehuggers, seitan dishes for vegans, and $1 Green Mountain roasters (if you bring your own mug!)

Just for fun...

our photo of the perfect apres-ski table: drying socks, hat and headphones, Magic Hat, and a giant bag of M&Ms

To HELL with the New Year's Diet: EAT POUTINE!

2012-01-10T11:30:00.000-08:00

On a recent getaway to Montreal, I was introduced to this Jewel of Junkfood...
Poutine -- it's that heaping plate of Fries drowned in gravy, crumbled cheese curds, and (for those Atkins-haters) even bacon!

You can treat yourself to strawberry-n-nutella crepes...sample "white" hot chocolate and Philly-caliber pretzels...and feast on a fine French duck at Bonapartes...

But no trip to Montreal is complete without the Poutine!

This culinary tradition dates back to the 1950s, to Quebec, when a restaurantuer told a customer, who was requesting fries and cheese to be packaged in the same take-out bag,

"thats gong to be' a 'maudite poutine'"-- or "big mess"

The gravy ingredient was added about a decade later by Jean-Paul Roy whose potato gravy recipe providentially existed in the same city as the poutine creation, making an easy culinary merger.
Poutine eventually spread down the Atlantic coast to NY and NJ-- the term "disco fries" ring a bell?

Now you can get poutine in fancy restaurants as well as 24-hour diners....
You can get meat gravy and sometimes even marinara saure or BBQ Sauce...although Quebecers will act appalled at this corruption.

You can even get poutine out on the West coast!

In-n-Out Burger has an off-menu item that's french fries with grilled onions and sauce. They don't advertise it, so expect a look of surprise when you walk up to the counter and say,

"French fries, animal-style please!"

2011 Holiday Gifts for your Favorite Traveler!

2011-12-10T03:52:00.000-08:00

An Ulu Knife!
For centuries, this uniquely designed knife was a basic tool of the Unupiat culture, used for everything from skinning seals to cleaning fish.

Today, any cook on your list will appreciate it! You can buy it, paired with a wooden bowl which cradles the nuts or herbs so the curved blade can do its job.
I have one of these! They're priceless, but you can get one for about $20. Shop here for Ulus!

CD of African Children's Choir
Have a music lover on your list, who'd enjoy this spirited collection of songs by some of Africa's most talented but also most vulnerable children?
Started in the '80s as an effort to help Uganda's starving and helpless orphans, the choir has since grown to incorporate South Africa, Southern Sudan, Ghana, and many other African nations.

They tour the US, and perform to raise money for schools and social programs back home.
Their fame has been infectious -- they've performed with celebrities like Queen, starred at Live8, and even sung in the White House.

They have about 6 CDs -- including a holiday one -- and they're easy to order.
Around $15. Order CDs here!

A Travel Journal
Have a friend who's getting ready to leave on a trip?
Think of someone who'd love a blank book for a diary? A recipe book? An exercise log?

These classy leather-bound books with refillable blank pages come in a variety of sizes -- the smallest is only about 5" tall and perfect to fit in a travel bag!

The company -- a private leatherworker out of Michigan -- also makes ipad cases, menu covers, eye glass holders, luggage, and a host of other beautiful leather crafts.
Around $22. See and order all their products here!

Pottery -- hand created, custom glazed!
This Mother-and-Son pottery from the hills of Barbados is a true favorite of mine! What's so special? Unique glasses. Colors that take you back to the Caribbean. Useful items, both in and out of the kitchen. Hardy designs, durable and even dishwasher-ready!

I've known them since 1986 and have collected many items: dinner plates! serving dishes! lamps! Just check out their designs...

My all-time favorite is their Sun design

But there's also a magical Moon scene

Their most popular glaze is the turquoise blue-green
but they've introduced a melon glaze now, also!

Prices start at about $10. From mugs to plates to small bowls for jewelry, check it out!

Books!
Would the reader on your list like:

Venice is a Fish, by Tiziano Scarpa : a sensual guide to Venice. Not really a guidebook, this cleverly written narrative is a series of essays on different parts of Venice's unique culture -- the life of the gondolier, perspective on the columns of St Marco Basilica, glassblowing, gastronomy!

Bear Man of Admiralty Island, by John Howe: a biography of Allen Hasselborg, who lived in the Alaska wilds in the early 1900s, as a homesteader, hunting guide, photography expert, and friend of the Bears of Admiralty Island!

Cry the Beloved Country, by Alan Paton: This heavy story of Apartheid is a classic in South African literature.

Istanbul, Memories and the City, by Orhan Pamuk: An enchanting novel of Istanbul and the Turkish life. If you like this book, try this others also (Snow and The Museum of Innocence are particular favorites!)

Photo items
Trip photos make a great photo album, and online versions like iphoto (Mac) and Shutterfly are as easy as they are popular.
But there are other items too:
Photo mugs! Photo tote bags! Photo ornaments for the tree!

They start at $12, and there's still time to order CUSTOM photo products for Christmas! It's all in Exposures Catalog!

A Subscription to National Geographic Traveler magazine
Out of all the glossy travel mags, I find National Geographic Traveler the most enticing! The articles range often focus on food trips, range from city stays to outback excursions, but always have a slightly unique angle. Off the beaten track travel, is, after all, my real love!

1-year subscriptions go for only $10! Order a Subscription here!

Gift Certificate for TRIP PLANNING with Tough Love Travel!

Give the gift of a dream!

There's a world of options... Contact me to set it up!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS FROM

MELANIE AND TOUGH LOVE TRAVEL

5 Reasons I feel SO lucky to be a TRAVEL DESIGNER!

2011-10-26T05:23:00.000-07:00

Fall Housekeeping at TLT!

I have a sparkly new website (coming in 2 weeks!), 18 new destinations, and tons of inspiration -- particularly for you FOODIES out there!

That has made me pause, to feel thankful for all my clients who have entrusted their travel dreams to me, and to count my blessings as a travel designer. Here are my Top 5:

#5: I get to meet and work with inquisitive, caring, talented people, like Hannah, from Brooklyn, NY, who captured this restful moment while on Safari to the jungle savannah of South Africa:

#4: I get to help people accomplish things that they thought were impossibly difficult... like Wilma, from Kansas, who wrote,

"After going with you to Alaska, I feel like I could go anywhere!"

#3: I get to make friends on (almost) all continents!

and I get to introduce my clients to worldwide friends, too!

#2: I get to keep a WishMap on my wall where I mark each of my Dream Trips with a small flag.

In 2 weeks, I leave for a truffle hunt with a farmer and his dog in Umbria. When will I get to marvel at the monarch butterflies as they swarm the trees of Michoacan? Or float in the steam-vent-warmed waters of Deception Bay in Antarctica? Our world in so enticing!

#1: I dream, typically in the same language, but rarely in the same country! Easter Island one night, Block Island the next! Is that what they mean by "taking your job home with you"?

So, thank you to all my special clients! I have lots more in store for you!

And if you're an adventurous traveler, who really wants a unique trip with offbeat lodging, novel excursions, and UNFORGETTABLE food, let me help you, too. I'll deliver a trip you will never forget!

Let's talk today! Call or text @ (609) 923 0304. Or email Melanie here!

Margie and the Bear Whisperer spend the day at Geographic Inlet, Alaska!

2011-06-20T21:47:00.000-07:00

I was up at 4:30am at the Captain Cook Hotel in downtown Anchorage, eager to embark on the highlight of my trip -- a day with the bears!

One quick flight down to Homer, one stop at the Sourdough Cafe for my charter lunch, and a photo op with the sea planes at Bald Mountain Float Tours, then our guide Gary Porter showed up and me and the other 9 people, in 2 planes, took off for Katmai!

Our shiny yellow float plane took us two hours over beautiful scenery to Geographic Inlet in Katmai NP. We landed on a lovely lake , and i climbed out onto the pontoons, then into a skiff to take us a few yards to the houseboat. We were instructed to leave our lunches -- no food out by the bears -- don rainpants and jackets, and even HIP BOOTS!

As we headed to shore, the bears were already in sight. I did not want to take my eyes off the bears as i feared they would run away as we approached -- yet I had to watch my footing in the loose rocks. But the bears did not seem to care that we had arrived. They looked up and took notice of our arrival, then they went back to the business of fishing the stream for salmon.

Gary repeated his instructions to stay close together, move slowly, and quietly. We came ashore to settle in a group on a sandbar with streams on both sides of us feeding into the lake.

Mother Brown Bear arrived with twin cubs, and they stayed with us for the day.

Gary told us he had developed a "comfort zone" for the bears by bringing people there every day to the same spot and not threatening their space. We were to stay seated on the ground -- we were not to stand -- no sudden movements -- no flash photos.

The Mother Bear became agitated only when other bears came too close to her cubs. She actually charged and scuffled with a large black bear just a few feet in front of us. We had to be perfectly still during this confrontation, but the black bear eventually retreated and the Mother Bear returned to her cubs. It was a tense few moments, but very exciting!

The Mother Bear was all business, all day -- fishing for salmon, keeping track of the cubs, and keeping other bears at a safe distance. In the afternoon, she took her cubs into the high grass on the far side to nurse and nap.

The steady drizzle that had started in the morning, turned to rain fogging the camera lens and my glasses. It rained hard at times, and I had to stuff my camera into my raincoat between shots. I must have been a sight, with rain running down my face, but i was perfectly warm and dry inside and enjoying every moment!
(This is proof of my favorite saying: no such thing as bad weather, just bad equipment!)

Baby bears came begging fish when Mother Bear caught one. If she thought they were getting too greedy, she'd fuss and growl at them. One of the cubs was quite feisty and more aggressive at stealing fish from his Mom and running off with it. Our guide said Mother Bear had smacked the cub yesterday sending him rolling. He didn't seem any worse for wear today as he was back to his old tricks. We saw this same cub catch his own fish. Since Mother Bear is still nursing these cubs, no wonder she disciplines one who can start to fend for himself.

Birds were everywhere snacking on fish remains left by the bears. I still have this vivid mental picture:

Bears splashing in the shallow stream. Birds squawking over head. Fog and mist obscuring the mountain tops. There through the raindrops off in the distance sat the float plane bobbing on thelake near the boat.

I was so totally immersed in the moment that i never once thought about food or bathroom (or lack of) But once back on the houseboat, i was glad to get those heavy cumbersome hip boots off, and get dry clothes on.
I was all of sudden very tired, too. It was an especially rewarding day for me as i had been concerned if I could actually do this physically.

Not only had we seen bears, but they had stayed with us all day and come so close to us. The inquisitive cub came so close to use that the guide had to clap his hands and yell so he'd run back to his Mom. Otherwise, we could have had a problem with Mother Bear.

Now for the trip home. From the houseboat to the skiff to the pontoons and up into the float plane. I was exhausted, not only from the physical exertion, but also from the emotional experience.
I nodded off in the cab as I rode back to the Captain Cook. At midnight, I was still washing out my muddy clothes and thinking of my next wildlife adventure -- a cruise on Thursday through Kenai Fjords.
Finally, for today, though, a hot shower!

What a day! What a glorious day! Most memorable experience!

Blog written by TLT guest and avid Alaskan traveler, Margie, from Central SC, in August 1998.

The Ghana Tableau

2011-05-18T18:47:00.000-07:00

There are slave castles, jungle canopies, soccer fans, shopping bazaars, wild beaches, and wilder street scenes.

Check it all out here!
THE GHANA TABLEAU

Images of Indonesia

2011-05-17T14:09:00.000-07:00

I'm back, fellow travelers!

To re-ignite your travel passion after my blogging absence, here are water gardens, erupting volcanoes, wild orangutans, and street food!

Double-click on the below image, and click "slideshow" on the top left. Here we go....

IMAGES OF INDONESIA!

Images of Indonesia

The pulse of Nepal: KATMANDU

2011-03-15T11:23:00.000-07:00

A heaping plate of buffalo momos --pan-fried dumplings-- for less than à buck, is a good way to get over jetlag!

And then, just settle into this tiny country's capital city. Katmandu might be described by 3 adjectives...

First one? Chaotic! Twisting alleyways, suicidal traffic, and scheduled power outages constantly keep you on your toes.

That being said, the second adjective is Peaceful. Sounds surprising, yet there are beautiful rooftop terraces for reading and relaxing

Everyone is very friendly, and I have yet to feel unsafe or threatened in any way (which feels really good!)

And, finally, the third adjective is Entrancing! The smell of incense and spices as you walk the streets, the religious icons that seem to be everywhere you turn, even the way people go about their daily business is all very new and interesting.
There's a certain energy in the air that is hard to describe, but definitely special to behold.

Here are a couple of highlights:

The Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square monuments (a World Heritage Sight since 1979) is a complex of palaces and temples that used to be the seat of the ancient Malia Kings of Katmandu back around 1500AD. It is here that the king of Nepal is crowned and his coronation is solemnized.

Monk communities blend right into the city landscape.

Like the monks....monkeys, goats, and the sacred Cow are all fully integrated into the city.

Thanks to Will Borchert (below) for contributing to this series of Pulse of Nepal

Easter Island...a long but worthwhile trek

2011-03-05T04:31:00.000-08:00

Easter Island – Rapa Nui in the native tongue -- is a minute volcanic island in the South Pacific with a history magnificent enough to captivate any imagination.

It holds the designation as the most remote, continuously inhabited island in the world,

and its most storied occupants are the Moai, great carved beings who are representations of the people’s forebears.

Your host guides welcome you into their guesthouse at the edge of town, and serve as interpreters for the ancient as well as modern history of their island–

and then introduce you to a vaquero, or Chilean cowboy, to explore the lava tubes and ruins of the remote northern coast--

or you can choose to rent a bike and strike out on your own.

Sunset is mellow – around the cove of sun-faded fishing boats and overseen by the stately moai, Ahu Tautira.

And at day’s end, there’re lantern-til taverns waiting for you, with batik-covered tables full of pisse (pronounced pee-see) straight from the sea and lemony-sharp chilean ceviche.

All that’s left is a night of wind-blown solitude on your speck in the Pacific.

Island Dreaming: zap me to VIEQUES!

2011-02-28T20:41:00.000-08:00

Vieques -- that laid-back island off of Puerto Rico's east coast -- has a distinct backcountry vibe far from the casinos of San Juan! Here on this 21-mile barefoot playground, beach lovers are enticed off the sand and into adventures with bikes, surf, nature, history, and -- of course -- FOOD!

The highlight (for me) on Vieques is the magical bioluminescent water of Mosquito Bay! Ever been in a boat at night, with a virtual light show in the waters around you? Here on Mosquito, the shallow waters and mangrove clusters make a perfect home for protozoans -- called Dinoflagellates -- who breed in such density that the waters literally light up after dark!

You'll have your choice of outfitters to take you around the bay -- electric boat or kayak, expert biologist guide or family friendly. They're about $25 for 2 hours, and some even pick you up from your hotel.
The best of the island (#1 pick of TripAdvisor) is Abes! Check him out on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-nBJBcorhQ&feature=player_embedded

Want to try a Paso -- or easy trot -- around the island? Horseman can join Billy The Kid (no joke!) throughout the heart of Vieques (787.741.2134) Or Esperenza Riding Company for a jaunt along the beach! Go in the morning or evening, to avoid the noonday sun -- it'll cost you $70 for 3 hours.

Into nature? The Kiani Lagoon has a wooden boardwalk with guided nature walks. These sacred waters, named for a native Indian Goddess, can be guided by Kiani Tours:
http://kianitours.com/?from=abes
Island fixture, Letty Perez, will show you wild horses, hermit crabs, cultural sites,

and the pride of Vieques, the Ceiba tree and its famous roots.

How about fishing? Here's what the NYT had to say about the turtle-grass flats of Vieques:

They are a looking-glass world, shimmering films of light and life that hide as much as they reveal. Such a thin slick of fresh water in the mountains might hold a nine-inch trout. But in saltwater, shallow water can yield a bonefish as broad as a bowling pin with the power to strip 100 yards of line. Or a man-size tarpon dressed in silver-dollar scales that gallops across the water like a bronco.

Here's the entire article, if fly fishing's your deal: http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/04/20/travel/escapes/20vieques.html

And when you get tired of running around, have your pick of some of the finest beaches in the Caribbean!

Red (the classic turquoise crescent)

Blue (with a sandbar out to a small key that's great for snorkeling)

Green (secluded by the coconut palms but watch out for afternoon sand flies)

or Black (the only untouched on the island!)

Try Navio, great for bodyboarding

or Media Luna, off of the Bun Bay beach road!

Top it all off with a food crawl in La Esperenza's kiosks for conch salad, coconut water, lobster, and all things fried!

"Pastelillos" are fried seafood dumplings

"Alcapurrios" are stuffed plantains

and Arepas are your standard fried dough (locals eat so much of these that they're nicknamed Areporos)

Or treat yourself to Bilis, a deceiving 5* open air cabana that's the highlight of the Malecon in La Esperenza! Start your meal with a namesake Amapola, or a glass of their famous Sangria. Salud!

Island Dreaming: zap me to THE ABACOS!

2011-02-15T12:07:00.000-08:00

...on a sailboat, that is!

The Abacos sit up on the northeast shoulder of the Bahamas, an epaulet of secluded turquoise coves, underwater marine sanctuaries, and 5-stool beach bars. You can explore these wonders from a resort, but for a true Bahamian experience... Charter a sailboat and sail away!

Don't know how to sail? Captains can be hired to take over -- handle the chores (and the stress) from leaving the dock

to navigating the course...

to tucking the vessel into the slip at days' end.

Along the way, you'll stop at island resorts for a day of pool-side lounging

Or strap on a tank at Brendal's dive shop for some underwater adventure at Green Turtle Cay:

or lay in the shade at Pete's Pub with a Goombay Smash!

Days on the water include fishing,

zodiac-ing to isolated beaches for a swim and beachcomb,

strumming and sailing,

But the best fun? Drop the hook out on the Bahamas' banks, and dive in the Sea! It's like pulling through a giant fish tank, sunrays angling down through acres of clear blue water to a rippled sandy bottom, just below your toes, strewn with apricot-colored starfish the size of dinner plates!

The captain often will give helpful tips to keep you shipshape. Today's tip: take a Joy shower after ocean swimming. The Joy soap grabs to salt, the freshwater hose off the boat stern leaves you refreshed, and the lemonscent follows you to keep saline mustiness out of the cabin.

Dock for a day here and there, and enjoy land pleasure also. 2-Wheeling through remote island forests, only to find a private Bahamian beach at trails' end, is a particularly sweet treat!

A few days on board will give you the "boat rocks", but you'll still return to the dock, to sail another day, deeper into the Abacos!

Where do you charter a boat or find a captain? The Moorings in Marsh Harbor.

Here's a photo gallery to check out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7-jkdGRGoc&feature=player_embedded#at=235

Island Dreaming: zap me to KAUAI!

2011-02-08T19:18:00.000-08:00

11 miles of 400-foot mud slides, a jungle full of mosquitos, and...did i mention... a 15-hour flight to the trailhead?! This is Kauai's storied Na Pali trail.

But follow us... we're taking the shortcut!
It's still no walk-to-the-beach, but the 2-mile version of the Na Pali trail generously rewards you with coastline vistas for your heart-pumping work, and at the end, gives you a beach, and even a waterfall!

The trail's a sort of goat path -- a simple, steep, and often rutted path

-- and it takes you from the carpark just past Hanalei Beach, on Kauai's north coast and straight up into tropical jungle. Dense palms cast a cool shade, and we kept serpentining up and down, back and forth, along the cliff, with dizzying dropoff glimpses of crashing waves through the fronds.

Take a gallon of water, and take breaks! After almost an hour in the tropical heat, dripping and flushed, we moaned as we read the warning sign on the beach: Dangerous Rip! Sure enough, you could actually see the current rush westward, and we had to console ourselves in the shallows along the shore.

Itching... not from bugbites but for more jungle trekking?
Head straight up the cleft of the valley from that wild beach to the Hanakapiai Waterfall.

It's another 2 miles inland, on a well marked trail that's not as steep yet full of surprises -- deep stream crossings and even a random band of native pig hunters.

The challenges are real. You will slip on tree roots, suck into mud, and drip sweat! It's imperative that you respect the rip tides at the 2-mile beach! But somewhere between the blue surf and the emerald jungle, we inhaled the earthy jungle pungence and felt -- even the 8 year old amongst us! -- exhilarated!

As a blogger posted a few years back,
"The lesson learned is to not let others fears and limitations stop you from searching to find your own."

Logistics of "doing" the Na Pali, or Kalalau, trail:

*flights usually connect through Oahu, cost about 800 dollars and about 15 hours (you'll definitely need a fully charged Kindle and Ipad!)

*you'll need a rental car to get from the airport up to the north shore

*there are 2 campgrounds along the trail: Hanakoa (a little past the halfway point) and Kalalau Beach at the 11-mile end. Permits are required for both and cost $20pp/night: http://www.hawaiistateparks.org/camping/permit_napali.cfm

*respect the sacred archeological sites along the trail

*consider a zodiac tour one-way! It'll save your time and legs. You may even decide to tackle the entire 11-mile stretch! Captain Andy's the guy for you: http://www.napali.com/kauai_rafting/

*don't miss the great public campground near the trailhead at Hanalei town. It's like Woodstock on the Beach, and a great venue to grill fresh Hawaiian green mussels, enjoy a cold Kona, and meet some new hippie pals.

Pomaika`i

That's Hawaiian for "Good Luck"

Island Dreaming: zap me to KEY WEST!

2011-02-02T12:55:00.000-08:00

More aptly titled, "3600 Calories (in 36 hours) in Key West", here's a truly decadent table crawl on Cayo Heuso!

Don't waste a minute! Go 2-wheelin' straight from the airport

to the deck at Louie's Backyard!

(thanks to Eaton Bikes and their free delivery @ 305.294.8188)

The best mojito on the island, enjoyed with some killer conch fritters, gets you started, but don't ask the bartend to order food anywhere but the bar... he'll know you're a Newbie!

For lunch, some fish tacos and cannellini bean bruschetta with sauteed calamari were slightly spicy winners!

I dozed next door on the Dog Beach

then biked over to my B&B for a quick shower before heading out to sunset.

A Painkiller at the Sunset Pier, while not exactly original, is a quintessential Key West treat!

I strolled Mallory Square, as the Cat Man performed before a setting sun and the Fury Booze Cruise rocked on by.

Strolling the shops on the Westin waterfront -- nicely uncrowded without any cruise ships at dock -- worked up an appetite.

Soon i was ready to bike over to the Flaming Bouy Filet Company, a new dinner Hot Spot in town, opened by a Cinncinati-transplant named Fred. Despite his landlocked life, he sure knows fish, and

grills a moist Key West Pinks (shrimp, for you out-of-staters) in cilantro chutney, and a sweetly watermelon-drenched ceviche too! Topped it off with Spicy chocolate quesadilla!

Not quite ready to go to bed, I wandered "the strip"! I watched martini-lovers on the La Te Da Duval-front barstools

and Gin-n-Juicers (an amazing cucumber concoction made with Hendrix Gin) at the secluded Orchid Bar, a little hidden gem hidden within a 1950's motel by the same name.

but frankly I was too beat for either, so i ducked into the old standby, Starbucks, for a chamomile tea, and was off to bed. Day 1 was done!

Next morning I headed straight to La Creperie, owned by a Key West Icon, Yolande. Her sidewalk tables on Petronia were the perfect niche to enjoy a Banana Lime crepe and a cup of tea, before grabbing some book time on Fort Zachary Taylor beach.

Early lunch called at Sarabeths, a synagogue-turned-eatery over on Simonton. The cool cathedral windows create an intriguing ambiance indoors, but my choice is the outdoor patio.

A key west Pinks-infused crab cake and salad fill me up, but the strawberry cake, on homemade shortbread, is the real surprise!

I spend the afternoon biking the hidden alleyways of Old Town, through the Truman Annex community, and along the southern Higgs Beach trail.

I end up over at the Historic Seaport for a Dark-n-Stormy at Pepes, the oldest restaurant, a cuban-fringed steakhouse, in Key West- opened 1909.

On a whim, i ordered the Mixed plate of Oysters... mexican ones with chile peppers, florentine ones with spinach, and spicy ones with tabasco.
Good choice!

Reservations for dinner were not easy to come by at the Seven Fish, but it's well worth the wait til 9pm! You could walk right by this little hovel, over on Olivia Street, but I had been wisely directed! The Black Grouper, their rendition steamed with almonds, apricots and coconut, was sweetly divine!

Full to the gills at the Seven Fish, Day 2 was done!

Next morning i found myself on the 8:15 complimentary water taxi to Sunset Key, an 8-minute ferry that delivered me to the private island with a clutch of posh residences, some Westin rentals, and the fancy Latitudes Restaurant.

A sister property to the famous Sagamore Hotel in Upstate NY, Latitudes offered me a rod-iron cafe table under the palms of its waterfront veranda. There, i opened a menu promising the Power Foods -- soy, blueberries, yogurt, broccoli --

but i opted instead for some sauteed Yellowtail eggs benedict with a side of spinach, a bursting florida pink grapefruit, and some hot coffee that arrived with a flourish in a silver carafe.
I was stuffed!

A mid-morning stop on my bike at one of Key West's homemade gelato stands was a fine idea,

and, as a grand finale, I gave myself an hour on the porch of Santiago's Bedego before heading back to the aiport. A flaky chevre tart, some thyme-laced lamb lollipops, and a tall glass of red sangria topped me off. It was time to go home.

If that was all 3600 calories, I need a new calculator!

Honorable mention goes to Nine One Five, whose Victorian porch, slung with bougainvillea, has great people-watching along Duval as well as tasty Pinks!

And to Half Shell Raw Bar. Happy hour's til 7pm where a couple of drinks and a dozen half-shells run less than 10 bucks! (best seat in the house? Outside on the dock, watching sunset!)

Don't hurt yourself!

Island Dreaming... zap me to ANEGADA!

2011-01-22T05:15:00.000-08:00

Still fantasizing about those Belizean lobsters? What about a lobster bash on Anegada?

There are only about 200 residents on this minute BVI (British Virgin Island) outpost, but no shortage of entertainment!

Let's start with lobsters...

The crustaceans are snagged right out of the pots which hang under the docks at southwestern "harbor".

From pot to grill to shoreside table, your feast will electrify ALL the senses... Buttery shellfish, sandy toes, an umbrella of powdered-sugared stars overhead, and a bay illuminated with the soft cabin lights of sailboats rocking "on the hook" in the gentle waves.

Check out Anegada Reef Hotel for details.

Interested in birding?

The salt ponds of Anagada are well-loved by Roseate Flamingos... And those "flamingo groupie" humans who stalk them!

Other wading birds -- herons and egrets -- are numerous, too!

A cool "front row seat" to watch these creatures is from Sue's kayak tour. She's a local guru of Anegada reefs, wildlife, and natural history.

Then what about a pub crawl?

From the Cow Wreck Beach bar (literally, cow bones washed up onshore and now celebrities wash up at this most unlikely outpost and carve their names into the bar poles)

To the Whistling Pine (try the "Pine tea")...to Neptunes right on the waterfront... to Flash of Beauty...

Finally to Loblolly Bay's Big Bamboo for a rum teaser under the sea grapes!

You are now officially at the end of the road!

And what about those turtles?
Anagada's on a Green mission for the Green turtles! Proud to be the most critical green turtle nesting site in the entire BVI, Anegada is also home to many hawksbill turtles.
If turtles are your niche, check out the Sea Turtle Recovery Project!

So how do you get to all this sunburnt splendor? (because, in this island of mangroves and dune grass, believe me....shade is hard to come by)
Located on the outskirts of the BVI cluster, this small island is tiny (only 10 miles long by 2 miles wide)

Low-lying (the highest spot is only 28' above sea level, which explains its name: Anegada, or Drowned Land)

And untouched. in fact-- are you ready?-- anagoda is reached only by boat or small plane! So prepare for an adventure!

I got there via sailboat flotilla (the charter guides over at the Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda escort bareboaters twice a week... All of which means nothing to you landlubbers, right!)

So how do most people get to Anegada? Day trips!

The Spirit of Anegada is a 44' gaff-rigged schooner that sails out of Little Dix Bay Resort (a resort on Virgin Gorda): full days ($95 including brunch), half-days ($65), or sunset cruises ($50). They sail to Anegada and make snorkeling stops along the way (equipments on board).

Or the M/V Sea Lion, a 45' catamaran, which takes Tuesday and Friday trips to Anegada for a day of snorkeling, beachcombing, and a local lobster lunch on the beach.

And you can always hop a quick flight- $160 for 2 from Virgin Gorda- a decent value even if the flight is only 10 minutes long!

The bottom line....

For those who want to get close to the elemental aspects of life, Anegada, the sunken island, is a most enchanting place with miles and miles of sandy beaches and total immersion into primeval seclusion

Island Dreaming... Zap me to BELIZE!

2011-01-14T05:58:00.000-08:00

Hurry up to slow down on Caye Caulker!

If Jamaica is all about big resorts, Belize's Caye Caulker is all about sandy lanes, barefoot bars, and chillin' out!

AND.... it's only a 7-hour flight, 12-minute shuttle, and $10 water taxi away!

Your days will take through the sand-only village, hanging with locals

scooting around
by bike or golf cart...

Or by boat to little beach bars

and cool marine reserves

Or even out spearfishing for lobster!

Too chill to spearfish? Meet Maurice, a CIA-trained chef who chose island Caulker over urban Chicago, and whose grilled lobster, served alongside cold Belikin on his picnic table, will hit the spot!

About the fanciest place you'll find is a small "dive" Dive Motel:

But there are a few lovely small guesthouses, like the Lazy Iguana, also!

Had enough reef and relaxation? Go Off-Caye for a day in the Jungle...Manatee Watching, Cave Tubing, Jungle Canopy Zip Line...all just a scenic boat ride from the caye to the mainland.

The unique thing about this Belize jewel is that -- with car-free, unpaved island trails and a community too laid-back for any place but an island -- you'll be able to stash your shoes and live barefoot for days!

Island Dreaming... Zap me to JAMAICA!

2011-01-10T02:59:00.000-08:00

Leave snowy NJ and be on the island beach by 9:30 that same morning! Jamaica calls!

Nestled on the western edge of the Caribbean, you get the sunshine-y days without the long and costly travel deal, and this island-- packing wild bobsledding alongside lazy beach days-- is very tempting! If you like Jerk Fish, forget it -- you must go now!

The recipe for this Island Quickie is:

*One direct flight on Air Jamaica (around $400) to Montego Bay on Jamaica's northern shore

*A 10-minute hop over to the lovely Half Moon Bay Resort... your home on Jamaica for 3 lush days!

You're there! Ready for your first rum punch yet?

Half Moon Bay, named after the crescent slip of sand which envelops it, starts with simple beachside bungalows for 2,

and goes up to large Villas, complete with staff and private pools, which house up to 4 couples as a group.

Private terrace for outdoor feasts!

There are even Spa suites, exquisite luxury for a special romantic weekend or much-needed treat for yourself!

thats a massage table, right in your room!

And all of these choices come with simply impeccable service! The bellhops (one particularly charming gent had been there for over 40 years!) knew my name by the 2nd morning! The bartend welcomed patrons to his waterfront counter and offered them their favorite drink!

Half Moon Bay is posh without being pretentious, and excels in making each guest -- old timers and newcomers alike -- feel treasured.

Fun, fountained pools and a complete dive shop, plus a full-service golf course, complete your entertainment

Right there on property, there's an award-winning Spa with treatment rooms in unique, over-the-water spa bungalows! Just you, the table, towel, and masseuse, with shutters open to the wind and waves.

The Seagrape Terrace

Great meals await, from the al fresco terrace shaded by fragrant almond trees and overlooking the surf, to the storied Sugar Mill Restaurant, an historic structure on the island hillside surrounded by lush gardens, staffed by culinary wizards, and overseen by Soloman, a longtime fixture at Half Moon who'll ensure an elegant dining memory for you.

And if you want to get out and run around the island -- go straight to Ocho Rios, or 8 Rivers.

You can challenge yourself to a wild bobsled ride, or a zip line tour through the jungle canopy!

That's me on the zipline!

While you're out and about, stop at the iconic Scotchies for Jerk! You can choose between chicken, fish, or pork, and don't miss local favorites like breadfruit and yams-- and, of course, a cold Red Stripe, the pride of Jamaica!

Ting is also a local's favorite-- of the non-alcoholic variety!

Will I be safe on Jamaica, you wonder?

Absolutely!

You can easily rent a car and drive yourself to these attractions (bobsledding is only about 1 hour from Montego Bay on the new highway) as well as more far flung beaches like Negril on the western shore (home to a famous Margaritaville). With typical smart precautions (it is recommended to drive in daylight hours and circumvent the capital Kingston), you are safe to self-drive the island.

But if you'd rather have the ease of a guide, check out Island Routes! http://www.islandroutes.com/tours/jamaica.cfm?event=ehTours.dspIndex&cid=5

Jamaica is a sure-fire cure to the snowy winter blues. Itching to go? Let me help:

Melanie at 609 923 0304

TRAVEL 2011: Let me inspire you!

2011-01-03T17:22:00.000-08:00

"Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights;

it is a change, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living."

Zipping upside down

and spelunking down below

Momma Monarchs

Daddy cats, Creatures from the Savannah

to the Sea

Monuments from Nepal

to Turkey

to Greece

to Guatemala

and up in Ghana, too

Dragons and people, both in the trees

Dogs on snow and under sail

Sunsets on islands in the Med and the Tropics

in the town

and in the bush

and even in a kayak under a Blue Moon.

All kinds of World Cup revelry

including some vuvuzela fun!

Stunning stadiums

and perfect pitches

Raucous fans

and festive parks!

Mountains in Vermont

and seascapes from the Atlantic to the Indian Oceans

Over-the-sea bungalows and off-the-moor castles

Subs for snow picnics

and shore specialties in the shell

Dragonfruit, Schnitzel

Mopani worms and Mozambican prawns

Where are you inspired to go?

Inspired Gifts that help! for Holiday 2010

2010-12-15T08:57:00.000-08:00

Want some ideas that are

unique...useful...inspiring

and whose proceeds help to erase world poverty?

BRACELETS: brought to you by Same Sky, a trade-not-aid initiative in Rwanda http://www.samesky.com/

These beautiful glass bead bracelets, made by HIV-positive women artisans in Rwanda, are sported by Halle Berry and Alicai Keys. Check them out:

They start at $145 apiece and SameSky is offering FREE SHIPPING through the end of December!

Here's the full range of Glass Bracelets:

http://samesky.myshopify.com/collections/glass-bead-bracelets

For a splurge, combine them, in "south pacific" or "c'est la vie"... here, check it out:

http://samesky.myshopify.com/collections/winning-combinations

They also offer Fabric Wraps, for only around $30-- perfect for those college gals we know!

Here's the full range of Fabric Wraps:

http://samesky.myshopify.com/collections/fabric-wraps

BUY A BRACELET TODAY... HELP A WOMAN SEE A BETTER TOMORROW!

"AMEN" PHOTOGRAPHY OF THE BEAUTIFUL GAME: brought to you by Jessica Hillout
You can purchase coffee-table books, posters, notecards, or prints! They make great gifts for any soccer lover on your list, and the shots- from Ghana to South Africa and the Ivory Coast- are stunning! Here, take a look:

Jessica's entire repertoire can be found at http://www.jessicahilltout.com/
Her mission is see joy and beauty where others may see only deprivation, and to capture the strength of the human spirit!

Products cost as little as $20 and much of her proceeds she funnels back into these rural communities. It's easy to order-- just click open this page:
http://www.jessicahilltout.com/order.html

DONATE TO A PARTICULAR PERSON IN THE DEVELOPING WORLD:
brought to you by Grameen Foundation. http://grameenfoundation.org/who-we-are

You can pick an Mom, a Farmer, an Entrepreneur.... from whichever group is closer to your heart.

Or choose someone from a region of the globe you'd like to help, like Latin America!

Grameen was founded by Nobel-Prize-winner Mohammed Yunus, whose work in Bangladesh has spread all over the globe since the 1970s and changed millions of lives!

It's a gift that goes directly to a person in need, while it honors someone you love here at home, and you can do it for as little as $35. Once your gift is finalized, you will be able to personalize and send an e-card. You can also print a certificate for your loved one, letting them know a gift was made in their honor.

This is not a tangible item, but one which may bring the greatest warmth to your holiday 2010!
Just go to http://grameenfoundation.org/holiday to get started!

Happy Holidays from Tough Love Travel!

GREEK LORE: the Colossus of Rhodes

2010-12-06T12:00:00.000-08:00

The Colossus of Rhodes, one of the 7 Ancient Wonders of the World, is shrouded in mystery.

It’s usually envisioned as a large man, often straddling the harbor entrance of Rhodes Town, this northernmost city on the Greek Island of Rhodes (pronounced by local guides as Rho-does). But what’s the real story?

The island of Rhodes had been a key commercial trading partner in the Mediterranean since 5000 BC and a big player in the regional politics (in fact, Lindos, one of the original 3 ancient cities on the island, actually sent an army to fight in the legendary Battle of Troy). Around 1500 BC, the cities decided to capitalize on this strength, and build a common colony for trade. They located this capital at the northernmost end and called it Rhodes Town.

In 408BC, Rhodes decided to intervene in conflict between their good friend, Egypt, and Syria. The Syrians didn’t like this and came to attack Rhodes. They eventually lost and were sent home, but not before Rhodes confiscated all their armor and weaponry.

All this metal was given to a craftsman to create a victory statue: The Colossus of Rhodes.

Taking 12 years to build, the Colossus had a proud but brief life, standing for only 50-90 years over Rhodes Town before being tumbled by a massive earthquake.

The Colossus was allowed to rest in disarray, by order of the Oracle of Delphi

(who's this Oracle of Delphi? go to http://toughlovetravel.blogspot.com/2010/11/delphi-omphalos-of-gr eek-world.html)

until more than 2 centuries later when the Syrians, once again in control of the island for a short decade, repossessed their metal and sold it all for scrap.

That is why no remains of the Colossus exist today.

But what did it look like?

Sketches show that it was shaped like a giant, and functioned as a lighthouse.

It seems to be modeled somewhat after the giant lighthouse of Alexandria Egypt, and plans collaborate this lighthouse theory since Colossus had oil lines to pump fuel up to the top, to burn a flame.

Where was it located?

Unlike popular myth which shows the Colossus straddling the harbor, historic fact shows that this was impossible -- today’s harbor, designed in recent years by the Italians, did not even exist in 400BC. This is the entrance to today's harbor:

Being a lighthouse, itwould have been showcased somewhere close to the sea, to intimidate attackers and aid navigation. But it was not likely AT the seas’s edge, since if the earthquake tumbled it into the sea, the saltwater would have corroded the metal and made its recovery too difficult with BC technology.

How can we best imagine it?

Sketches made around the 14^th century show an amazing resemblance to our own Statue of Liberty. In fact, the Colossus is held up as the most important prototype for Bartholdi's "Lady".

I made a short roadtrip to check this out, and sure enough, there is a dedication to the “Little Colossus” displayed in the first story of our Lady. (when you go, book tickets in advance at http://www.statuecruises.com/ and take advantage of the audio tour!)

Here is what it says: " THE NEW COLOSSUS Not like the brazen giant of Greek fame, with conquering limbs astride from land to land, here at our sea-washed, sunset gates shall stand a might woman with a torch..."

What else can you do on Rhodes?

We ate fresh figs sold by a local housewife off her stoop, listened to stories of Knights reminiscent of the Divinci Code, and wandered the labyrinth of streets (Fun Fact: did you know that medieval cities were always built in a maze to protect them from enemies, and the only open squares you will find are examples of modern redesign and rebuilding following the frequent earthquakes which devastated the island).

We drove down to ancient Lindos and walked up the 2300 steps to the Acropolis. Fun Fact: Acro is greek word meaning “on the edge”, and Polis is greek for “city”, and this Acropolis is certainly a city on the edge of a cliff!

Peering out over the sapphire Mediterranean, I imagined John the Baptist fleeing the Romans in his sailboat (Fun Fact: John escaped certain death by tucking into a tiny harbor hidden beneath the Acropolis here on this island, that is still called the Port of St John)

We paid 4euro per person to sit on a gorgeous but terribly crowded stretch of beach, where we lunched on grilled fish at Mertemi, or “Big Wind”.

And we visited a potter, one of only 8 commercial artists left for this historic but dying craft on this storied island.

Raki vs Ouzo... get your spirits straight!

2010-11-27T16:30:00.000-08:00

Raki vs Ouzo! Can you tell them apart?

Both are anise, or licorice, flavored liqueurs. Both are delicacies of the eastern Mediterranean. And both are most often served with white cheeses and other cold dishes, called "mezes", like tomatoes, fava beans, roasted chick peas, salted almonds, mackerel and other seafoods.

Past flavor and custom, though, they are not the same.

Raki is a Turkish staple rooted in centuries past, but popular for some 300 years! Originally called arak, it is known to treat every ailment from toothache to depression to appendicitis and anxiety. It is flavored with anise but it much stronger (they say it can reach up to 90 % alcohol!). So, the mere concentration of spirit seems to strip the aromatic appeal you'd expect from anise, and instead, Raki goes down more like gasoline.

I tried it on the island of Crete (a Greek island, yes, but on the far eastern side, close to the Turkish territory) but you can find it throughout the Balkan and larger eastern Mediterranean region, all hours of the day and night. We tried it at 9 in the morning!

It is made from the "tailings" of wine production. The residual skin and pulp is boiled up to produce a steam, that, when condensed, becomes this revered apertif.

Ouzo, on the other hand, is Greek! It is the descendent of Raki, and is related to other European anise drinks, like sambucca for the Italians or pastis for the French. Ouzo, though, is acknowledged to be exclusively of Greek origin with deep roots going back to Hippocrates' medical work. In modern times, ouzo is a certified as an exclusive Greek product for marketing purposes, and has become the quintessential Greek tradition!

In the Greek isles, ouzo is typically taken an hour before sunset, served in a skinny tall glass, alongside a glass of water. When you mix the two, the anise seed in the drink turns it a milky white. Its licorice scent, lighter alcohol (35-45%), and cheap price, make it a legendary Greek favorite.

Want to taste the favorite Ouzo? Visit the Aegean island of Lesvos!

DELPHI: the Omphalos of the Greek world

2010-11-15T18:48:00.000-08:00

Delphi is perched high on the hillsides of Parnassus, surrounded by deep crevasses and olive groves, some 180 km north of Athens.

It is now a complex of ruins, but was conceived about 2600 years ago as a glorious temple for the Oracles, to make decisions, hold councils, and talk philosophy, here overlooking Gulf of Corinth on the Ionian Sea

-- right in the middle of Greece, where north and south peninsulas meet. It was literally the belly button, or "omphalos", of the ancient Greek world.

The archeology park starts at the marketplace.

The small stone-walled shops and plain doric, rather than fluted, columns indicate that this section was an add-on-- built around 200 AD in a roman rather than greek design, where the omnipresent sign of the cross signified that Christianity was here to stay!

The road, or Sacred Way, winds uphill through 100 or more treasury houses. The treasury houses were the product of Delphi's growing international significance, as the Oracles advice played large roles in colonizing Italy and Asia Minor. It was a period of prosperity, and many countries -- including the Thebans, the Corinthians, and the Syracusans -- built treasury homes here. The most famous is the Treasury of Athens, although all were chock full of precious gifts and jewels in the 7th and 8th century.

Nearing the road's crest is the original site of a huge bronze serpentine column, called the Tripod of Plataea, made to commemorate the Greek's victory over the Persians. Removed by Constantinople in Roman times, it currently presides over modern day Istanbul's hippodrome. It originally was covered in metal, and adorned with a golden bowl supported by 3 serpents heads. Virtually all of this decoration was destroyed during the Crusades and the Ottoman conquest (one of the bowls is at Istanbul's Archeology Museum), or removed to make coins, but the basic serpentine column can still be seen today, though not at Delphi.

The main attraction at Delphi is the Temple of Apollo, who, in greek lore, came to the port below as a blue dolphin.

This was THE destination -- where Kings, Generals, and ordinary citizens would journey, to cleanse themselves in the waters of nearby Kastalia Spring, pay a tax and often sacrifice an animal on Apollo's altar, before seeking wisdom from the Oracles.

Higher still is the 5000-seat amphitheater, and at the top, through a lane of tall pines, is the stadium. Supposedly, there was originally a hippodrome here at the very top, but no ruins have been found.

Of course, many of the most remarkable pieces are protected today in the Delphi Museum, including the site's most famous piece, the Charioteer. It is a larger-than-life bronze statue that is whole, although only parts of the actual chariot ensemble remain. It is so well preserved the hair still is detailed, curling against the statue neck! It is the only remaining bronze from this site, because it was lucky enough to have fallen and been buried, and thus rescued from pilfering. Even the eyes, pure onyx discs, are original!

Decorating the site were countless statues and friezes.

Males, aspiring to be athletic specimens, were shown nude (in fact, the word gymnasium means "nude" because it is where the nude Olympians would come to train and compete.)

A famous pair of nude Twins, kouroi statues sent as a gift from King Hera of Egypt, illustrate a remarkable difference in style: Egyptian bodies were blockier, positioned with the left foot in front, and with long hair or headdresses,

whereas the Greek bodies were more life-like, with softer faces, prettier stances, and curly locks of hair.

If you see a male statue from this period draped in robes, he is likely a philosopher.

And females of this period-- often the sibyls, or enlightened advisors to the Oracles -- were shown never nude, but instead robed and with sweet faces.

There are caryatids (careful inspection shows holes in the hair where crowns and necklaces once adorned these stone beauties)

and sphinx from Naxos that's over 2.3 meters high.

Collected inside the museum are lavish gifts from the ruler of Phoenicia, current day Lebanon. These treasures include gold crowns and chains which often decorated the girl statues (as above), and a huge and wildly precious bull statue, laced in silver with golden horns and yoke.

And, of course, there is a marble Omphalos.

As you drive away from Delphi, you can't help but feel enthusiastic, for, as etymology suggests, En means "in", and Thu means "God", so enthusiasm means to have God in you -- a just sensation from this once holiest site in all of Greece.

Liquid Gold: Greece's Greatest Asset

2010-11-08T04:46:00.000-08:00

Many come to Greece in search of glorious ruins, of prodigious myths and legends, of a kind of serenity which may only be found upon the halcyon waves of the Aegean Sea…

I, on the other hand, have come for the olive oil.

Olive oil, so it is said by the locals, is the “liquid gold” that maintains the financial, physical and spiritual health of Greece and it’s warm, magnanimous people. It is the primary means of food, trade, and tradition amongst much of the country, especially in the more remote, barren territory of the Greek Islands. Yet many tourists seem to take this for granted, indulging in Greece’s more conspicuous historical delicacies at the expense of missing out on some of the country’s finest cultural and culinary offerings. Being a traveler who enjoys exploring the hidden alleys, the cracks in the walls, the raw, organic heart and soul of the world, I am following the unparalleled taste of local Greek olive oil, and embracing every adventure along the way, however grand or incidental.

My taste buds led me along the culturally rich (albeit touristy) roads of La Placa, where I spent the evening at a café overlooking the ancient gr

ounds of the Agora - the marketplace of the ancient Greeks - eating in the eclipse of the Acropolis upon the hill (which is donned in changing colored lights).

It led me up the funicular, to the lantern-ed terrace where I dipped liquid gold while Athen's neighborhoods twinkled on, and the mast lights of sailboats illuminated the Sea of Crete.

It led me across the waves into the heart of the Greek islands, to a serene meal perched upon a tiny restaurant deck, the waves crashing beneath my feet and the sun setting over my head, plunging into the deepening orange hues of the sea.

It led me down crowded streets and through basement cafes. It led me to beaches bustling with greased up tourists (with one memorable terrace) and it led me to a band of local musicians hanging around the bars.

Who knows… your olive oil cravings may even lead you headfirst into spontaneous adventures, drinking raki (a local drink made from fermented grapes) and doing a little dance with a Cretian dance troupe. After all… sometimes it is the experiences you inadvertently stumble upon that prove to be the most transformative moments of your life.

So go see the Acropolis. Go hear the tale of the Colossus of Rhodes

and admire the Charioteer.

Enjoy the Temple of Delphi and the Monestary of St. John.

These are, after all, among the innumerable must-sees of Greece, and some of the finest architectural and historical landmarks on the face of the Earth. When you’re done, however, come join me at the café down the street. I’ll save you a couple grape leaves and, yes, a heaping plate of bread and fresh liquid gold.

This post submitted by Rob Borchert, whose musical adventures around the globe took him to Turkey and Greece this past summer, where he reveled in the culinary as well as cultural treasures! To learn more about Rob's music, go to www.RBorchertmusic.com!

BELIZE: Lobster BBQ on the Caye

2010-11-03T09:49:00.000-07:00

We had risen early, to bike the beach trail east towards the town of San Pedro.

At times it was difficult, dragging bikes over seawalls and through deep sand, but it provided a unique seaside perspective, and as we splashed along the lapping shoreline, we saw dive shops open their shutters, young boys arrive to hawk homemade necklaces,and tourists arise from their huts and hostels to embrace another day on the island.

Our day would be more off, than on, the island. We were going on a lobster- BBQ adventure!

After breakfast at the Plantation House (an indulgent affair -- mimosas, juicy mangoes, parsleyed eggs Benedict, all enjoyed on our casita patio overlooking the palms and sea), Juan, our guide, whisked us off the dock and down to the mangroves, to net sardines in the generations-old manner he had learned from his grandfather. His trained eye scanned for the silver clouds and he tossed and scooped with the rhythm of a dancer, until our cache was full and we were off to the reef!

An hour or more we casted and reeled...and roasted... in the tropical sun, pulling in some Jacks, a Snapper, and a single triggerfish which he nonchalantly said, "we'll save that for the sharks later"

Then, we motored over to the shallow reef and we drifted with the current, teasing barracuda onto our hook, and wondering about the stilted fishing huts that dotted these shallow waters.

Owned by local families, these peeling, simple shacks had a cleaning bar that ran along one side, and a rickety covered porch along the other. A few clusters of kids snorkeled with spears, and in the end, took at least a dozen barracuda compared to our 3.

Time to lobster!

Dropping anchor on the north side of Ambergris, Juan handed us each a hooked, 6' pole! Overboard, into 12 or so feet of water, we floated with our snorkels, scanning the lobster "carports" - these 12'x18' wooden and plastic flats that look a bit like a flattened parking carport - for a protruding antennae or flurry of sand from these caribbean crayfish, known locally as Spiny Lobsters.

Turned out, actually hooking the crafty crustaceans was not as easy as it looked! My type-A son slapped the water and cursed the reef gods, until he finally got the hang of it and snagged more than a dozen! I even hooked one, and got an "assist" on a second!

We hyperventilated in the waves, but we'd dive down again, and chase more of them around, making our lungs scream as we pulled at the "carports", trying to force them out of hiding.

Once hooked, they'd squeal and stretch as they were pulled to the surface, but soon, they were in the boat, off the mooring, and heading to the beach, to star in our lunch BBQ.

I had been curious all day, about the bulging sack of dried coconut husks in the cockpit, but what a perfect fuel for our beach bonfire! In a shallow pit beneath some palmetto, the coals smoldered. Juan cleaned and foiled our catch, spiced it up with onions, lemon, and his secret ingredient....mayonnaise! I had turn my eyes from the fat but I couldn't resist the the scents and sizzles that soon came off our fire, and the resulting feast was madefiner only by the isolated cove and mirror blue waters which became our lunchroom.

After our lobstering adventure, late afternoon was anti-climactic. We motored out to Shark Ray alley, where we chummed the triggerfish amidst dozens of nurse sharks, and Doug actually got to barrel-hug one of them! They seem to get in a trance when you turn them over and rub their bellies.....the trick is to get them turned over!

Our boat ride home from the Hol Chan ("little channel") Marine Preserve was quiet and reflective. Ambergris Caye's manicured resorts spread out before us. Did we really spend the afternoon like Robinson Crusoe?

BELIZE: A day in the Jungle

2010-10-21T15:36:00.000-07:00

The rainforest woke up slowly, as I jogged softly along the damp jungled lane, and up through the sleeping village of Bullet Tree Falls. An old man was tying up fish nets, a pile of rubbish puffed smoke into the already misty air, bands of dogs snarled, and a lone rooster crowed. I pressed on through the typical fog, which burnt off step by step, so that by the time I made my way back into Parrot's Nest, a blue sky welcomed me.

I packed my day sack with dry socks, my journal, sunglasses and bug dope, and a giant water bottle, and headed down out of my aerie to meet Kaite, whose Guatemalan coffee and homemade guava jam had become a daily ritual. I wrote in my journal as I waited for breakfast, filling whole pages with the botanical names surrounding me... bougainvillea and red ginger, heliconia (below left) and avocado, guanacaste and a dozen shapes of palm.

Jose, our PACZ guide, was soon announced by the Nest's resident dog pack, so we gobbled down the last bites of omelette and dragonfruit and took off. Wewere headed to the ATM cave!

The 45-minute route by van took us along highway with those axle-busting speed bumps, through small villages, and down a dirt road that wound through sugar cane and deep into the jungle... and that was before we struck out on foot!

Imagine Indian Jones-like trails, with full mudslides and river crossings, vipers and mosquitos. By the time our group reached Actun Tunichil Muknal entrance, we looked like authentic wilderness-worthy explorers (except for my pink Sony SureShot)

We got the rules: No food. No touching the cave formations. Headlamps on so you don't get lost from the group.

With that sober warning, we, one by one, took a stride jump into the river at the cave's mouth and swam after our guide, into the dark.

The spelunk took us meandering more than a kilometer into the mountain, stumbling along underwater boulders and squeezing through tight slits, then into cavernous spaces like The Cathedral, decorated with gargantuan, peach-hued stalagtites. We sometimes swam against the current and other times stooped, in the pitch black, to hear stories of early exploration or Mayan lore.

At one point, a fellow guest dropped his camera and almost slipped off a ledge to save it. An older woman struggled to get up a rock step as I marveled that the US would never allow this type of "recreation" without guardrails, electric spotlights, and a full legal release.

In the heart of the cave, we removed our water shoes and donned fresh socks to climbup (literally, up a 15' ladder) to the sites of the Mayan sacrifices from around 900 AD . There were crushed pots - the mayans used to cook pots of food and smash the vessels, to"feed" the Gods.

There were many sculls and leg bones (from victims as young as 1 year old), and, on a high shelf, free of the flooding that typically disturbed these remains, lay the perfect skeleton nicknamed the Crystal Maiden. This 18-20 year old girl...

actually sparkles, from the calcite that has collected on her still bones over the last 1000 or so years.

ATM is uniquely pristine in Belize where cultural sites have often not been well protected. So we were dismayed to hear the story of a recent tourist who, while trying to get the perfect shot, accidentally dropped their camera right onto the mouth of the scull, breaking 2 of the front teeth in an otherwise perfect 1000-year-old "smile".

The swim and hike out of ATM sapped the last of our energy and we all dozed as the van headed back to San Ignacio.

The countryside is full of Mayan ruins, though, so on the way home, we stopped at Xunantunich. Accessed only by a short ferry across the Belize River, this small site from the Classic period centers around a large tower, El Castillo.

The temple has stelae which are carved with date glyphs , and altars which illustrate important stories of the culture -- for example, long tail feather engravings represent a bird from distant lands, indicating that the culture was sophisticated enough to trade with faraway tribes.

The life of this ancient city came alive as we stomped up ruin staircases, but the heat and exertion of the day had depleted us and we were ready to go home.

We finally reached Parrot's Nest late in the afternoon. A group was just heading out with inner tubes, Marcus (our Nest host) ferrying them in his truck down to the put-in spot on the Mopan River. This afternoon ritual was enticing, but we chose instead to take a Belikin to our bunks up in Treehouse 2, for a siesta with our books and the singing jungle birds.

With dusk came cocktail hour on the wooden veranda, which overlooks the grass plain and the rushing river.

Our small band of quiet revelers settled into rustic tree branch chairs and, as if on queue, the fireflies started their show. First one blink... answered by a second... then a trio.. and suddenly, the grass was a tickertape of blinking golden lights.

Marcus pulled out a bottle of homemade wine (tonight it's banana) and poured a round. We told about our adventures in the ATM cave and a few recent Miami U grads told about their home-building project which they've come to Belize to help complete.

We ate farm raised talapia (a jungle staple) and rice-n-beans, and a soft cornbread.

For me, that made a full day.

I was the first to retire to my treehouse. I propped up with my novel, but the clip of the ceiling fan mingled with the chirp of the night bugs, and my story was a mere jungle dream.

Beauty of Belize: Slide show

2010-09-28T17:28:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow, I fly to USC for Parent's Weekend with my 20-year-old. The last time I saw him, he was spearfishing lobsters off of Ambergris Caye in Belize.

Join me for our slideshow of Beautiful Belize:

We forded jungle rivers and spelunked in caves, exploring sacrificial sites of the ancient Mayan.

We stomped up temple ruins and heard tales of ancient civilizations.

We ate dragonfruit and grilled Talapia and a spinach specialty served alongside stewed meats. We ate rice and beans, at every meal, of course! We washed it all down with the island's own, Belikin, and a splash of homemade Banana Wine!

We slept in treehouses, perched 2 flights up, high in the fork of the trees. The Mopan River flowed under us, the fireflies put on a nightly show, and the jungle cats hunted prey through the tall grasses!

The next night, we slept on offshore cayes, where we biked along sandy roads (and even sandy beaches), drifted the reefs with local guides in search of barracuda, swam with sting rays in the marine sanctuary, and... yes... went free diving to spear fish for lobsters!

Come along for our photo tour, showcasing the Beauty of Belize!

Here's the link:

http://picasaweb.google.com/toughlovetravel/BeautyOfBelize#

The USVI... spotlight Maho Bay!

2010-09-23T13:30:00.001-07:00

Maho Bay, located on the northern shore of St John in the USVI, was our tented camp home this past July. The camp is scattered through rainforest cliffs, which overlook the turquoise sea and the outlying Whistling Cay. (this view is from the deck of our own cabin!)

The camp is a labyrinth of boardwalks, connecting the few dozen tents with bathhouses, excursion desks, dining pavilion, and even glass blowing studios.

The tents have screen sides to let in the ocean breezes, and taut canvas tops which create a wonderfully percussive stage for the tropical rains!

We loved to lay in bed at night and listen to the rainforest sounds (although one citydweller asked the owner, "how do you turn off that noise?")

The chorus of chirps comes in, but the creatures stay out...like this stunning 4' iguana who lived in the branches just outside our front door!

At the cliff top, the boardwalks converge on an open air dining pavilion... check out the view!

It's a popular gathering place at sunset, and a spectacular venue to watch thunderheads roll across the sea. But most often, it is the scene of creative meals, put out twice a day, featuring yummy, fresh, and nourishing items like yogurt parfaits, spaghetti and meatballs, vegetable omelettes, and even vegan specialties. There's even a bar, for beer and wine at dinner!

There's a lot of snorkeling...

and hiking, right at the Camp...

plus a yoga hut to practice your Downward Dog at 4am, 8am, and 4pm.

A full schedule of fun's at the Excursion hut

where the accommodating staff will set up all kinds of things, from cooking to art, night dives to kayaking.

TLT recommendation? Make time to go sailing on the Pepper!

For more information on Maho Bay Camps and the island of St John, email me at

Melanie@toughlovetravel.com!

Tough Love Travel on YouTube!

2010-08-17T17:42:00.000-07:00

Back to Nature in the USVI

2010-07-31T04:53:00.000-07:00

I didn't go to the USVI for a duty-free Rolex or a time-share. I went for the nature! (and some bonding time with my 17 year old son... more on that later)

Snorkeling on St Johns was the most pristine I've enjoyed in years. The coral is (mostly) untouched, and the visibility is terrific! We swam with Angels whose lovely dark gray or turquoise pancake-shaped bodies paddled gracefully between the rocks -- Damsels with their petite royal blue bodies dotted in florescent specs -- skinny Trumpet fish swimming on their noses - Parrot fish in their rainbow suits, munching on coral so loudly you hear them beneath the water (and thanks to our knowledgable guide, I finally learned what those red and gray ones are...the females!)

There were schools of tiny fish so numerous they made you actually dizzy to swim through them (you know, the ones that swim-as-one but scatter and swirl when you swim into them?) and giant 5' tarpon lurking nearby waiting to take them for a snack!

We even had the luck to see the perfect specimen of a spotted Eagle Ray just before we climbed back into the boat.

We were out on the Pepper, a lil 21' locally build sloop with a thick, wooden mast and a big empty cockpit sort of like the catboats back on the Jersey coast.

But you don't need a boat. Many snorkel spots are an easy drive and hike, and a favorite- where you'll find loads of starfish! - is Watermelon Cay at the end of Leinster Bay.

Another? Chocolate Hole Bay, where harmless nurse sharks are the big attraction.

And over on St Thomas, just a 15 minutes sail (on Heavenly Days catamaran)

takes you offshore to Buck Island's Turtle Cove for... yes... turtles! They thrive in the sea grass.

Here they are on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYj73-0i2zQ

Land-based nature lovers, check out this hiking trail!

It's called the Johnny Horn, and while it's only 1.8 miles long and only to elevation of 400', it makes for a challenging morning! Running from Leinster Bay on the northshore, over the forest ridge to Coral Bay, it goes past ruins of guardhouses, built in the 1840s to catch escaping slaves (the BVI, just across the short but treacherous channel, promised freedom to enslaved people), along beaches (like Watermelon Cay, above, and its starfish), through a forest thick with ferns and birds, and down to Coral Bay where you can refuel at either the Donkey Diner ("kickass food"... their slogan, not mine) or the famous Skinny Legs tiki bar.

There are also easier trails to explore the Annaberg Sugar Plantation or the enticingly remote Salt Pond beach.

You can even get lodging in nature on St Johns! We stayed at Maho Bay camps -a clutch of 20-or-so tent cabins, wedged onto this rainforest-y cliff, where a series of boardwalks connects your cabin to the bathhouse (yes, your tent cabin comes with a bed with fresh linens, some cooking facilities, and your own private deck! but you have to share a bathhouse),

to the activities desk (where you can sign up for sails or guided hikes),

and to the dining pavilion which is impressively perched up on the ridge-- so your hike to dinner is rewarded with a killer sunset view!

Maho Bay surprised me with a glass-blowing studio where you can watch the experts and even make a "flower" yourself! There's also a yoga studio (4am, 8am, 4pm) which my 17-year-old did not enjoy, and a camp store whose BenNJerry's he did enjoy.

It took me a couple of days to get into the pace of this outdoor island life- days filled with outdoor activities, quiet time around 5 to read, write and enjoy twilight as it settles in....
Dinner around 6:30 or 7, early enough to feel awake and conversational...
A walk back to your tent in that complete blackout, void of all sight but alive with chirpers (remember your flashlight)....
And still alert enough to sit and read for almost 2 hours in that complete
silence that only wilderness can bring to you.

It quieted my mind in the most beautiful way.

The pace of outdoor island life, I learned from this giant iguana who lived in the branches
outside my tent. He's about as big around as a large PVC drainpipe, not
counting those olive green spikes that run down his back (he's so puffy he
looks like he's been WAY overinflated!)
I don't have any idea where he hides from the tropical rainstorms, but at all other
times, he hangs out in the open, weighing down the jungle branches as he
surveys the boats and sea, hour after hour after hour.

I think he's got a good life!

If I lived like this all the time, i think I'd be so much more peaceful. And surely get a lot
more books inside me! I wonder, though, if my 17-year-old would like to share that with me? Maybe until the BnJ's ran out!

ROADTRIP! Livin' on Lobster in New England!

2010-06-01T13:36:00.000-07:00

You've landed in the (unofficial) Lobster capital of the US: Acadia National Park on Mt Desert Island!

This coastline has a rich history of native residents, explorers, and vacationers, and believe it or not, Lobster was not always a treasured delicacy! But the land WAS treasured, first protected in 1916 by President Woodrow Wilson, and later changed, in 1929, to Acadia.

To see what all the fuss is about, follow our route through this northernmost park, and sample Acadia's scenic playground alongside its crustacean concoctions! Go on a Lobster-Only Diet!

Start Day 1, catching the sunrise up on Cadillac Mountain, then head straight to Jeannie's Breakfast House -- in the park's main town, Bar Harbor -- for a Lobster Omelette (raved about on TripAdvisor's Bar Harbor breakfasts!) served alongside her legendary fresh berry pancakes.

Then, with bike and daypack, scoot to the bus stop in Mt Desert Street's main square. You can latch your wheels to the front rack of the Island Explorer (it's free!) and shuttle down to Seal Harbor, a perfect starting point for your ride home along Acadia's famous carriage roads.

The unique and treasured legacy of the Rockefeller family, these car-free roads are fun for a short leg or for a whole day. They feature 17 stone-faced bridges spanning streams, waterfalls, cliffs, and roads, and the design of each bridge, such as Cobblestone Bridge, is unique.

Check out the below map:

See Jordan's Pond House?

It's the perfect spot to take a bike break, for lobster stew, lobster salad, or lobster claws on a bed of lettuce!

After lobster lunch, it'll be a slow going, so take your time getting back to town, and plan a quiet afternoon at the Mt Desert Oceanarium, a Lobster Museum with Hatchery lab and Marsh tours:

http://www.theoceanarium.com/

On the way back into town, stop at 35 West street, Stewman's Lobster Pound. Choose a snack to go.... some crab and lobster cakes or one of the pound's famous lobster rolls.

Picnic in pack, head on over to the causeway to walk or bike over the only-at-low-tide land bridge to Bar Island which you'll find just north of the big pier on West Street.

Make sure you check the tides:

www.maineboats.com/tide-charts/downeast

Wonder how to read the tides? Next week, for example.... Friday June11th... low tide is is at 4:30 pm. High tide is at 10:42 so that means that you should be off Bar Island, and back in town, by around 7pm. Make sense?

On Bar Island, you can hike up to the little summit, or beach comb along the tidal beaches, but either way, you'll work up an appetite, so when the tide rises, head inland to the Cafe This Way for your evening's lobster!

Cafe This Way describes itself as "artfully prepared meals served in a setting as comfortable as your living room and as relaxed as your front porch".

In fact, you can savor your meal on THEIR front porch -- check it out:

Start the evening with lobster spring rolls, then dine on Lobster and spinach over penne (a nice twist on the ubiquitous Lobster Alfredo)

Day 2 should begin over on Cottage Street, on the front porch of Two Cats!

Enjoy your morning Lobster alongside Fair Trade coffee, fruit smoothies, legendary pumpkin-chip muffins, and seafood crepes seasoned with herbs from the cafe's garden. There's also a fine Lobster Benedict!

You'll want some exercise to work off this decadence, so choose from the park's more than 120 miles of trails with cool names like Precipice, Beehive, and Perpendicular-- names that have become vacation lore for scores of families who make Maine their annual summer retreat.

Or explore the lively waters, looking for porpoises and bald eagles, with Acadia Outfitters (also on Cottage St). Don't worry if you're a novice.... the guides are great, and offer you double kayaks and a range of itineraries to fit your skill and energy with your route.

Find a quick bowl of Lobster chowder or chili (no kidding!) and some Lobster fritters.

There are lots of lunch places in town -- one of the biggest tourist traditions is the Thirsty Whale, right off the main harbor. Order a cocktail there and get a red rubber lobster garnish!

In the afternoon:

Take a horse-n-buggy ride or a narrated boat tour to explore the woods and waterways.

Join a ranger program! A full listing is in the Beaver Log, the NP's newspaper. Here is a link to last summer's issue: http://www.nps.gov/acad/parknews/upload/JulAug09BLog.pdf

And tonight, head to Beal's Lobster Pier on Southwest Harbor.

You can watch the sun go down as the kitchen cooks you up some Lobster Thermidor.

On your last day in Acadia, take a daytour out to Little Cranbury Island. It's a sleepy island of rosebushes and grasses, historic wooden houses, and a dockside cafe with ice cold drinks and front row seats for all the harbor buzz!

And the Ultimate? Celebrate your 72-hour Lobster-Only Diet with an authentic Downeast Lobster Bake!

Most communities have some version or another of the Maine lobster bake. In the deep South it is the crab, crawfish or shrimp boil and in the Midwest the fish fry. The traditional lobster bake is the most involved of the three, because it requires building a fire pit. There are great outfits who cook up your crustacean (grilled or boiled) with seaweed fresh from the ocean... corn on the cob, boiled potatoes, and sometimes clams and mussels.

The options go on and on... Lobster stuffed Manicotti....... Lobster Ravioli...

You probably need more than 72 hours!