DRIEST Swath of Sand: the Atacama Desert of Chile

Chile!  Touch the driest place on earth!  Imagine the Pinochet regime, listen to international jazz, go skiing in the summer,  get in the creative space of Neruda... and THEN fly out to Easter Island!

Now, THAT'S A BUCKET-LIST TRIP!  Click here to make it happen!

For a daytrip out of Santiago, or for a multi-day jaunt (Yes!  Better!),

YOU can witness the Atacama's boiling Tatio geysers,  isolated San Pedro streetscenes, ancient ruins, and windblow PILES of sand at the Valle de le Luna!  Here -- watch for yourself!

Email me now with your questions!

Swath of Sahara in Tunisia

If you love this article on Tunisia's desert, give me a call:  (609) 923-0304.

I can tell you about Sahara experiences, both in Tunisia and in Morocco! 

The ships of the desert plodded towards Tunisia's setting sun, their frayed leadropes swinging lazily from the hands of the robed bedouin herder.  Clunky shoulders shifting left to right, the camels trudged forward.

Then they spit!  These seemingly-reluctant ungulates were really full of piss and vinegar, and I suddenly felt relieved to have their head (and teeth!) safely tethered by Mohammed.

 We were out to catch sunset in the dunes.  We had watched them turn from shiny cream, to soft peach,  to burnt mustard, til - finally - a rosey-lavender, as the last rays of the blazing sun closed our final day in Tunisia.

WHERE DID WE STAY IN THE TUNISIAN DESERT?
The Ksar Ghilane oasis was traditionally the best 5* camp at the edge of the Tunisia Sahara.

From a village of canvas tents (which surprise you with an full, modern bath!), you spend your days exploring the medieval forts hidden out amongst the dunes,





meeting the locals, harvesting dates and tending livestock,




and, at night, feast fireside, including a round from the boulangerie, baked right over the coals!



Today in Tunisia, there are mobile camps (3*-5*) where you can overnight.  They lack the water features (and, sadly, the palms) but they do often offer ATVs for heart-throbbing desert adventure.  Besides, they have the extra benefit of a fully immersive desert experience.




HOW TO DO YOU GET TO TUNISIAN OASIS?

You'll want a guide!   Our guide here (another Mohammed!) had a good joke on us!    But you'll truly want an escort to interpret your journey through Tunisia!

Between the coast and the dunes is an arid area of troglodyte communities.  Homes and even complete hotels are constructed entirely underground.  Mohammed introduced us to a family who lived here, see left.

In one of those rooms, she prepared the dinner.







The road meanders through small villages of mudbrick buildings and past ridge-top castles.

 Local men rode donkeys, loaded high with their foraged booty, to the market.

When the heat started to bake the streets, we stopped on a shady terrace for a bowl of olives and a plate of tomato-y chicken and carrot stew...

and a quick shop in a specialiste de cuir barbouches et schuhe (the local leatherworker)!


WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO IN TUNISIA?
I recommend a couple of overnights in a fondouk of Jerba!  Avoid the touristy beach hotels (where they advertise "Get Your Photo on a Camel here at 6pm") and opt instead for the old town, Homt Souk!  You'll be immersed in the carpet hagglers of the souk, soaking up the history at your own fondouk, an inn dating back to Tunisia's caravan days when the Christians were relegated to this lodge rather than the common marketplace.    Today, these are boungainvillea-adorned enclaves with open courtyards where you can take breakfast before heading out into the bustling village.

You can also sample the local street food, like from our friend, right, who was grilling lambchops on a roadside hibachi!

There are local bathhouses -- gender-separated community baths similar the the hammams of Morocco or Turkey.

And, up in the north, visit Carthage, a Mediterranean town of ruins dating back to the Battle of 149BC.


Despite the exotic and often stern appearance of the local Arabs, they were quite curious and welcoming to us, and Mohammed (a 3rd Mohammed!) actually became our friend.

 You want to have a vacation photo like this? 

Come on out to the Sahara!  Revive your high school French, experience the local culture, and grab a mental touchstone of this bizarrely gorgeous swath of sand - Tunisia! 

For more info, grab a free 20-minute appointment.   Click here!

BACON HAPPY HOUR and 5 other CAN'T-MISS spots in crazy Key West!

At Tough Love Travel, I'll show you the real Conch Republic...

Far from Duval Street, where the locals hang,  it's the best of Key West for Foodies! 

Grab a free appointment NOW to hear more!  Click HERE! 

1.  Key West Best BACON HAPPY HOUR
At the new 2¢ Bar,  bacon happy hour is irresistible.  Yes, strips of crispy bacon stick out of rocks glasses, and you can even roll the dice for a price of your drink.  (NOTE:  Don't roll a 6 like I did!  You want to roll a "1" -- this means your Albarino will cost only a buck!)




This is truly one of the best Key West gastropubs!  You'll nosh on fresh-from-farm grapefruit and avocado arugula salad - so peppery it made my mouth burn!

And Scottish eggs -- a hard boiled quail egg, rolled in sausage and sauteed to a crisp!

Everything -- I mean, EVERYTHING -- in the 2¢, from the hyper-creative menu concoctions to the repurposed chandeliers (compliments to the designer from Chicago), to the pressed tin and custom woodwork and hand-sponged counters,  is a personal creation of owner Chris.

2¢ gets my vote for the Conch Republic's most eclectic yet modest new gem, with the warmest welcome!


2.  Key West Best FISHING THE FLATS
Fishing the "flats" -- which some people call the "Banks" - is the best Key West angling experience!  The flats are sandy expanses, 15 minutes our of the marine, where you can fish, in a special no-draft boat, for baracuda, shark, and more!

This is really fun, guys!  No fishing experience needed, you stand on the bow, and "sight cast", meaning you look for a blackish-blue 4'-ers swimming across the clear turquoise.  Then you cast your line just past their nose, and reeeeeeel in quickly.  It's a hoot to see them spot the lure, and turn in a dash towards the boat!




Another type of flat fishing in amongst the mangrove islands, where you can find Jacks and, if you're lucky, a school of big Reds!


3.  Key West Best AFTERNOON AT SOUTHERNMOST HOUSE
It's a privileged overnight (or a superb wedding venue!) at this historic Victorian on the sea, built by the Ramos merchanting family in 1819, and more recently owned by the much-respected Circuit Judge (not to be confused with Salvage Judge) Jeptha Harris.

But if you don't want to plunk down the $250/night for a room, you can enjoy this Best of Key West experience for the day.
For $10, you get a poolside chair and towel,  chilled limewater by bowl of fresh fruit, and even one complimentary drink!
This is a wonderfully secluded and calming oasis to afternoon, away from the crowds!


4.  Key West Best OCEANVIEW FLAT

Want the best Key West hidden lodging?   Here's a great cottage, for you to call home in Key West!  Right on the beach, on the eastern side, smack in the middle of the Louie's Backyard action,  you'll wake up to killer views, yet enjoy privacy, tucked behind the sea grape and palm!


5.  Key West Best OYSTER HAPPY HOUR AT THE HALF SHELL 
This may not be new, but it's so good, it bears mention.
50* oysters!  On the half shell.  Starting at 4pm.
You can get 2 dozen of the freshest bursting-with-brine oysters and 2 glasses of crisp Pinot Grigio, for under $20!  I am not kidding!

NOTE:  if the place is packed, don't wait!  Order at the bar, and walk our platter out to the dock, to slurp shellfish  amongst the sailboat masts, with the pelicans!


6.  Key West Best NEW CHERRY-ENCRUSTED RIBS AT SANTIAGOS

 Santiago's Bodega -- already an unchallenged Key West Best for afternoon tapas,  just introduced their cherry-encrusted shortribs!  Add to your decadence with some flambeed haloumi cheese and roasted brussel sprouts, and you could be there for hours!

Don't you just LOVE Key West?

If you want to hear more about the BEST of Key West, let's talk! 

Call or text Melanie now:  (609) 923 0304!

Adorable in Antarctica: Antarctic Penguins

Is Antarctica on YOUR bucket list?  

Click here to get a free session, to talk about it!

The momma Humpback rolled slowly over the obsidian surface, and her eye met Jeanne's.  She and her baby surfaced again, closer, and finally, brushed the rubbery zodiac with her barnacled flipper, then dove deep, not to be seen again.
Jeanne looked at the man on the seat next to her.  He looked dazed... seasick.   "Are you okay?"

"I'm just trying to figure out", he mumbled, "what I just saw". 

This once-in-a-lifetime whale encounter was goosebump stuff.
Antarctica penguins, on the other hand, are scattered all over the islands and peninsula, and have become an icon of this beautifully hearty and wild landscape.

WHERE DO YOU CRUISE TO SEE ANTARCTIC PENGUINS? 

The typical route departs from Ushuaia, in southern Argentina,  to cross the Drake Passage, followed by an entourage of petrels and gulls.  You cruise past Nicholson Harbor and through Deception Island, and even -- in many cases -- stop on the actual Antarctic peninsula.
NOTE:  did you know that you can actually SLEEP (in a tent) on the Antarctica continent one night? 
Antarctic penguins live throughout this region, each having its own latitude and migration schedule.

WHAT KIND OF ANTARCTIC PENGUINS DID JEANNE SEE? 
There were Magellans and Chinstraps,

Adelies and Macaronis.  The only variety of Antarctic penguin that remained elusive was the Emperor (but they did get to watch March of the Penguins on Quark's looping library of Antarctica-themed movies)

DO ANTARCTIC PENGUINS EVER CO-MINGLE?
Jeanne did witness one guy -- just standing in the midst of a thick colony of Chinstraps, looking checking out his neighbors.

In general, though, the varieties of Antarctica penguin live separately.

DID THE ANTARCTIC PENGUINS HAVE CHICKS? 

Boats cruise Antarctica from December to March.  By the time Jeanne cruised in late January, the chicks were hatched and largely independent from their parents.  The Antarctic penguin chicks were still easy to spot, though, by their spotty molting coats.

WHAT WERE THE ANTARCTIC PENGUINS DOING?
Some were arguing.  Over what?  Nothing obvious.  Their chicks were hatched and food was consumed in the water, not on land.  Spats tended to be a sudden, explosive
BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH,
and then it was over.

Some were swimming.  During the early chick stage, Antarctic penguins have to take turns, sitting on the nest with the babies,  but by midwinter, the adults could go for a swim and hunt!

WHAT'S THE MOST SURPRISING THING ABOUT ANTARCTIC PENGUINS? 
The penguins seem to know no fear.  You are strictly instructed to stay at least 15 meters away from them, and oftentimes, Jeanne would set up at a distance to the colony, with observe with binoculars.

What typically happens, though, is that the penguins wander right up to you.  Jeanne got within 2' of a Chinstrap!
The penguins sort of pause, look for a path around you, look right AT you.
Then they often will waddle up and actually peck at your shoelaces or pantlegs!
This complete lack of fear of the Antarctic penguins surprised Jeanne the most!

IS THE POOP OF ANTARCTIC PENGUINS AS SMELLY AS RUMORS SAY?
No.  Even as the Antarctica penguin chicks fledge and the nesting ground falls into chaos, the odor is minor.
The guano -- which is bright red -- does make, though, a remarkable scene.
One traveler stood at the register with a colorful postcard in hand,  before she realized that the adorable penguin was photographed on a giant red mound of poop!

WHAT OTHER ANIMALS DO YOU SEE BESIDES ANTARCTIC PENGUINS?

Seals, like this Leopard Seal, sleeping on the iceberg.

Skua  gulls, who love to scavenge the carcasses of penguin chicks.

And, of course, whales.  Not just the humpback that dazed Jeanne's friend on the zodiac but also Minkes and sometimes even Orcas.

Want to hear some super-cool things to do in Antarctica? 

Jump off the boat at Deception Island and swim between the underwater volcanic steam vents and the icebergs! 

Kayak at surface level with the humpbacks! 

Send a postcard from the Antarctica  Post Office! 

Hike in the steps on Shackleton!

Call me NOW to see what YOUR Antarctica possibilities are! 

(609)923-0304

Your private swath of sand in the Mojave Desert!

Now THIS is a different Spring Break idea, right?! 

Need a writer's retreat?   A quiet weekend to regroup?   An outpost for a family gathering?

Give me a call!  I can set up all the details:  (609)923-0304

A mere 2 hours outside of LA's traffic and Hollywood's glitz lies this:   the Mojave desert!

Did you know that there's a cabin where you can overnight in the Mojave desert...


BBQ in the stillness of the desert as pallid-winged grasshoppers chirp...
then lounge with a chilled glass on this deck



as dusk settles silently over the land?


WHAT DO YOU NEED FOR AN OVERNIGHT IN THE MOJAVE DESERT?

The cabin comes equipped with linens and full kitchen.  There's a caretaker (off premises) in case you need assistance, and miles of Mojave desert hiking right out your back door.

ARE THERE ACTUAL TRAILS TO HIKE IN THE MOJAVE DESERT?
Surrounding the cabin are surreal geologic features.  Some are massive, but others are small rock outcroppings - fun for scrambling and perching (best Mojave desert view around!)





Joshua Tree's ranger station and hiking network is only a 20-minute drive away.

WHAT'S THE FAMOUS TREE OF THE MOJAVE DESERT?

These Dr-Seuss-looking trees with dagger-like spines are called Joshua trees.  They are a highlight of the Mojave desert, and the namesake of the nearby national park.

They were supposedly named by the Mormans, migrating westward, who thought the stark limbs looked like the outstretched arms of the biblical figure, Joshua, beckoning them onward.

WHERE IS THE MOJAVE DESERT?
Wait!  You didn't know that the US had a bonafide desert?  Here is it:

UNBELIEVABLE CREATURE OF THE MOJAVE DESERT: 
From the road, the Mojave desert looks almost lifeless.   But in fact, if you examine more deeply, you'll find a variety of Mojave desert plants and animals that are adapted to torrents of rain, strong winds, and extreme climate.

The female Tarantula Hawk Wasp is one fascinating example in the Mojave desert.

She finds a tarantula by smell.   She often seeks it out, in its den, and - after an often acrobatic flipping and flailing, stings the spider, thus paralyzing it for life.

She drinks the body fluids oozing out of the tarantula, in order to replenish her own nutrients which are depleted from the attack -
then she drags the spider back to the burrow (now a burial vault), lays a single egg on the spider's abdomen, and seals the chamber.

Once the egg hatches,  it begins to suck off the spider (now dead) and eventually rips open the abdomen and "feeds ravenously".

I'm always eager to talk about YOUR next adventure! 

Grab a 20-minute complimentary get-acquainted session, right here! 

Swath of Sand in South Africa: the Gamtoos River Coastal Reserve

Planning a trip to South Africa and confused about the hundreds of options in this fascinating but broad country?  I'm FUNDI certified 

and can help!  Grab a complimentary 20-minute session to ask all your questions, by clicking here!

In my new series, showcasing some magnificent swathes of sand from around the world, see the Gamtoos River Coastal Reserve.


We had driven the striking Garden Route (for those unfamiliarwith South Africa, this route is more coastal than garden-like, heading southeast from Cape Town).  Shortly after Tsitsikamma National Park, we saw, in the distance, these enormous dunes.

They turned out to be the Gamtoos River dunes and a more raw, lonely, windswept landscape would be hard to find.

Take a virtual visit here, to see for yourself:


SLIDESHOW OF SAND DUNES OF SOUTH AFRICA!

lone fisherman

entrance gate to Gamboos River Coastal Reserve

                                               

                                                          seashells from the Indian Ocean

Come! Let's talk about off-the-beaten-path travel!
Where's YOUR next adventure?
Tell me!