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Showing posts with label Paris cafe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris cafe. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

My Top 5 Literary Paris Cafes: Harry's

Harry's is one Paris cafe that makes no pretense of being French!
Since its inception, this decidedly American "Paris Cafe" has been draped with Ivy League banners!

....and  ex-pats...
F Scott Fitzgerald and Gertrude Stein, Humphrey Bogart and, of course,  Hemingway (whose shotgun is prominently displayed in the back) all hung out here.   Americans were (and still are) told to tell any taxi driver to take them to "Sank Roo Doe Noo", a slogan born of the address, 5 Rue Daunou.

...and American specialties, like the ole hot dog, known here as a Red Hot!  (which i found to be neither red, nor particularly hot, but I wasn't going to refuse a "dog" on a pub crawl!)


Some remarkable American traditions have thrived here, like the presidential straw poll, conducted here every election since the 20's (and it's been right all but 2 times!).







Harry's could not be any more different than the neighboring Paris cafes.  There's no cafĂ© on the menu. No wine.  And (how refreshing!),  no TV!

In fact, the actual interior IS American.   First owner, a prohibition-frustrated Ted Sloane, actually dismantled a bar from NYC (complete with wooden counter that still had american university plaques embedded along the edge) and shipped it to Paris!    He shortly sold it to a Harry MacElhone, who christened it with his name.


Bartenders are a little surly, but the cocktails are famous.
You've heard of the Bloody Mary?  It was born here in 1921, when the bartender played around with tomato juice and vodka, to which one patron said "it looks like my girlfriend, Mary, who I met in a cabaret".  Turns out that dance hall was the Bucket of Blood, and, thus, the drink was born!

Ever had a Monkey Shoulder (a type of whiskey sour)?  Or a Horse's Neck (that's a one-piece orange rind curl in some sort of brandy)?

Wonder which of these drinks James Bond was referring to when he said, in Casino Royale, that Harry's was the only place he could get a "solid drink"in all of Paris.

As cocktails shook rhythmically behind the bar,  George Gershwin sat in the crowd, jotting his composition for American in Paris.

Never to be confused with Harry Capriani's bar, of Venice fame, Harry's New York Bar, by Place Vendome, is one of my favorite Paris cafes!

Last year,  Harry's turned 100!





Tuesday, January 15, 2013

My Top 5 LIterary Paris Cafes: L'Hotel

Email me here, to hear how YOU can incorporate literary cafes into YOUR Paris vacation! 

"Either the wallpaper goes... or I do!"

You may know Oscar Wilde by his clever quotes, but did you know he spent time in prison?  
Afterwards, he moved into Room 16 at what was to become one of the most discreet but lavish Paris cafes:   L'Hotel.   Squeezed between the Latin Quarter and St Germain, L'Hotel started as the rather rundown Hotel D'Alsace where Wilde famously "lived above his means". 


"All of us are in the gutter, but some of us are looking up at the stars"

L'Alsace was eventually renovated into this prestigious Paris cafe which virtually hides down a plain street (albeit with a fancy name), Beaux-Arts,  behind this simple facade







marked only by a small plaque: 

"True friends stab you in the front"

Wilde lived, and eventually died, in Room 16,  on the 2nd floor up a stunning spiral staircase.


But downstairs, friends -- from Salvatore Dali to Frank Sinatra -- gathered in velvet chairs in the parlor of this Paris cafe,
and the clientele became so famous that cocktails today are named after them: the Born to be Wild, the Lillet Rouge Royal, and Tommy's Margarita

Rock stars, like Mick Jagger, also frequented L'Hotel as the years marched on, and, today, this Paris cafe celebrates that rock-n-roll past by showcasing new talent, Mondays at 8:30pm. 

"Always forgive your enemies -- nothing annoys them so much"

Where is this Paris cafe? 13 Rue des Beaux-Arts,  +33 1 44  41 99 00

When to go to this Paris cafe?  On your walk between Rue Huchette and St Germain, for some refreshment before the Delacroix museum

Most surprising about this Paris cafe?   There's a private hammam pool, sequestered in the basement.

Want to get a flavor for life in this Paris cafe?  Check out this video!

"A work of art is the result of a unique temperament"