GREEK LORE: the Colossus of Rhodes

The Colossus of Rhodes, one of the 7 Ancient Wonders of the World, is shrouded in mystery.

It’s usually envisioned as a large man, often straddling the harbor entrance of Rhodes Town, this northernmost city on the Greek Island of Rhodes (pronounced by local guides as Rho-does). But what’s the real story?

The island of Rhodes had been a key commercial trading partner in the Mediterranean since 5000 BC and a big player in the regional politics (in fact, Lindos, one of the original 3 ancient cities on the island, actually sent an army to fight in the legendary Battle of Troy). Around 1500 BC, the cities decided to capitalize on this strength, and build a common colony for trade. They located this capital at the northernmost end and called it Rhodes Town.

In 408BC, Rhodes decided to intervene in conflict between their good friend, Egypt, and Syria. The Syrians didn’t like this and came to attack Rhodes. They eventually lost and were sent home, but not before Rhodes confiscated all their armor and weaponry.

All this metal was given to a craftsman to create a victory statue: The Colossus of Rhodes.

Taking 12 years to build, the Colossus had a proud but brief life, standing for only 50-90 years over Rhodes Town before being tumbled by a massive earthquake.

The Colossus was allowed to rest in disarray, by order of the Oracle of Delphi

(who's this Oracle of Delphi? go to http://toughlovetravel.blogspot.com/2010/11/delphi-omphalos-of-greek-world.html)

until more than 2 centuries later when the Syrians, once again in control of the island for a short decade, repossessed their metal and sold it all for scrap.

That is why no remains of the Colossus exist today.

But what did it look like?

Sketches show that it was shaped like a giant, and functioned as a lighthouse.

It seems to be modeled somewhat after the giant lighthouse of Alexandria Egypt, and plans collaborate this lighthouse theory since Colossus had oil lines to pump fuel up to the top, to burn a flame.

Where was it located?

Unlike popular myth which shows the Colossus straddling the harbor, historic fact shows that this was impossible -- today’s harbor, designed in recent years by the Italians, did not even exist in 400BC. This is the entrance to today's harbor:

Being a lighthouse, itwould have been showcased somewhere close to the sea, to intimidate attackers and aid navigation. But it was not likely AT the seas’s edge, since if the earthquake tumbled it into the sea, the saltwater would have corroded the metal and made its recovery too difficult with BC technology.

How can we best imagine it?

Sketches made around the 14^th century show an amazing resemblance to our own Statue of Liberty. In fact, the Colossus is held up as the most important prototype for Bartholdi's "Lady".

I made a short roadtrip to check this out, and sure enough, there is a dedication to the “Little Colossus” displayed in the first story of our Lady. (when you go, book tickets in advance at http://www.statuecruises.com/ and take advantage of the audio tour!)

Here is what it says: " THE NEW COLOSSUS Not like the brazen giant of Greek fame, with conquering limbs astride from land to land, here at our sea-washed, sunset gates shall stand a might woman with a torch..."

What else can you do on Rhodes?

We ate fresh figs sold by a local housewife off her stoop, listened to stories of Knights reminiscent of the Divinci Code, and wandered the labyrinth of streets (Fun Fact: did you know that medieval cities were always built in a maze to protect them from enemies, and the only open squares you will find are examples of modern redesign and rebuilding following the frequent earthquakes which devastated the island).

We drove down to ancient Lindos and walked up the 2300 steps to the Acropolis. Fun Fact: Acro is greek word meaning “on the edge”, and Polis is greek for “city”, and this Acropolis is certainly a city on the edge of a cliff!

Peering out over the sapphire Mediterranean, I imagined John the Baptist fleeing the Romans in his sailboat (Fun Fact: John escaped certain death by tucking into a tiny harbor hidden beneath the Acropolis here on this island, that is still called the Port of St John)

We paid 4euro per person to sit on a gorgeous but terribly crowded stretch of beach, where we lunched on grilled fish at Mertemi, or “Big Wind”.

And we visited a potter, one of only 8 commercial artists left for this historic but dying craft on this storied island.

Liquid Gold: Greece's Greatest Asset

Many come to Greece in search of glorious ruins, of prodigious myths and legends, of a kind of serenity which may only be found upon the halcyon waves of the Aegean Sea…

I, on the other hand, have come for the olive oil.

Olive oil, so it is said by the locals, is the “liquid gold” that maintains the financial, physical and spiritual health of Greece and it’s warm, magnanimous people. It is the primary means of food, trade, and tradition amongst much of the country, especially in the more remote, barren territory of the Greek Islands. Yet many tourists seem to take this for granted, indulging in Greece’s more conspicuous historical delicacies at the expense of missing out on some of the country’s finest cultural and culinary offerings. Being a traveler who enjoys exploring the hidden alleys, the cracks in the walls, the raw, organic heart and soul of the world, I am following the unparalleled taste of local Greek olive oil, and embracing every adventure along the way, however grand or incidental.

My taste buds led me along the culturally rich (albeit touristy) roads of La Placa, where I spent the evening at a café overlooking the ancient gr

ounds of the Agora - the marketplace of the ancient Greeks - eating in the eclipse of the Acropolis upon the hill (which is donned in changing colored lights).

It led me up the funicular, to the lantern-ed terrace where I dipped liquid gold while Athen's neighborhoods twinkled on, and the mast lights of sailboats illuminated the Sea of Crete.

It led me across the waves into the heart of the Greek islands, to a serene meal perched upon a tiny restaurant deck, the waves crashing beneath my feet and the sun setting over my head, plunging into the deepening orange hues of the sea.

It led me down crowded streets and through basement cafes. It led me to beaches bustling with greased up tourists (with one memorable terrace) and it led me to a band of local musicians hanging around the bars.

Who knows… your olive oil cravings may even lead you headfirst into spontaneous adventures, drinking raki (a local drink made from fermented grapes) and doing a little dance with a Cretian dance troupe. After all… sometimes it is the experiences you inadvertently stumble upon that prove to be the most transformative moments of your life.

So go see the Acropolis. Go hear the tale of the Colossus of Rhodes

and admire the Charioteer.

Enjoy the Temple of Delphi and the Monestary of St. John.

These are, after all, among the innumerable must-sees of Greece, and some of the finest architectural and historical landmarks on the face of the Earth. When you’re done, however, come join me at the café down the street. I’ll save you a couple grape leaves and, yes, a heaping plate of bread and fresh liquid gold.

This post submitted by Rob Borchert, whose musical adventures around the globe took him to Turkey and Greece this past summer, where he reveled in the culinary as well as cultural treasures! To learn more about Rob's music, go to www.RBorchertmusic.com!