ROADTRIP: Italy's Chianti country

Welcome to my series of international road trips -- my favorite routes from 5 countries!  

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You've studied the Duomo, marveled at the David, and bartered for Murano glass.  Now it's time to leave Florence and head south into Italy's famed Chianti country.


ITALY ROADTRIP STOP 1:  Greve, the seat of wine country
Rent a little Fiat out of Florence (the Avis shop on Borgo Ognissanti puts you right at the south bridge to exit Florence, but beware the car-free zone because the Italians DO ticket!)

Less than 45 minutes drive and you'll be enjoying Chianti's storied landscape and pulling into Greve, with its overflowing markets and charming enotecos, or wine-tasting bars.

From here, you can get to the vineyards by either walking (or biking) the famous Strade Bianca (or white road) that's been used by farmers for centuries, or by driving, which permits you impulsive stops at little cucinas like this one, along the way!

There are vineyards and also olive farms, and detours (along back ways like the photo, right) will reward you with not only history and culture lessons of the area, but also proper tasting methods for both wine and olive oil.

Buono viaggio!  Chianti Classico!

ITALY ROADTRIP STOP 2:   Truffle Hunt
The old-school Hotel Brufani, perched atop the pinnacle town of Perugia, is the ideal stopover enroute to the truffle farm.  The head north, early the next morning, to meet Emma, the truffle-hunting canine (see her interview, here), hunt for the elusive culinary treats, and then spend a treasured afternoon in the farmer's kitchen, cooking... the savoring... a truffle feast.

Drive late to Sienna for a quick overnight in the horse-racing campo of Tuscany!   Check out this venue for your nightcap!

ITALY ROADTRIP STOP 3:  Etruscan country
Before you head south to the world of the Etruscans, grab a sunrise cafe and treat yourself to a hot air balloon ride over the rolling Tuscan hills. (champagne and classic farmhouse Italian breakfast included!)
Then detour south to Etruscan country:  deep ruts of ancient Etruscan roads, caves, and hot springs.  My favorite is a natural spring.  Yes, you WILL stoop under the fence, walk across a field, change clothes behind a bush, and crawl INTO the river alongside the locals for your free, and superbly atmospheric, soak!

I recommend an overnight in the nearby village of Saturnia, before hitting to road back to Florence.  If you're willing to brave a one-way rental charge, another options is to head straight south to Rome - you're only 2+ hours away!

Melanie is a road trip expert!  Her client, Carol, says: 

You sent us to places and found us routes that we would never would've found on our own!  Thank you!

Melanie can help you, too.  Call her today with your questions:   (609)923-0304 

Janet taught me: AUBERGE DE LA TRUFFE!

Love Foodie travel?  So do I!  At Tough Love Travel, I offer a free foodie travel guide (truffles and more):  

16 Extraordinary Foodie Experiences from Cairo to Connecticut!  Get  it here!

My loyal readers KNOW I'm a truffle fan!    I've interviewed Emma, the truffle-hunting K9 (here's her take on the truffle life of Umbria)  and made your mouth water with truffle-stuffed ravioli recipes!
But that's all in Italy!

Now, thanks to Janet, I have a great contact in France, too!    Auberge de la Truffe in Sorges!

At the Auberge, they like to boast that they offer the culinary traveler a unique recipe:

a generous welcome, warm comfort, and an authentic table!  

Sounds perfect to me! 

They are associated with the Hotel de la Mairie where you can overnight for around 110€ in a charming room.

Try the Truffle Terrine

During your stay, the cooking class is a MUST!  While visiting the land of foie gras and truffle, how better to learn the culture than to take a cooking class with a chef who has been in the area for 30 years!   The typical cooking class last the whole weekend, includes 6 meals (full of truffle recipes!) and 2 nights' stay at the on-site lodge, plus a farm tour!

Since you've made it all the way down from Paris to the quaint town of Sorges (6 hour drive), don't miss the truffle museum either!

Going on an actual truffle HUNT while you're in Perigord is a perfect compliment to your stay at Auberge de la Truffe but one important note:   Unlike in Italy's Umbria where different truffles come into season throughout the year and you can truffle hunt in all seasons (except when snowy), in this area of France, truffle season only lasts from mid-December til mid-February. 

 Here's the truffle-hunting labrador and his master, who'll guide you through the "hunt" in this field that looks barren despite its hidden treasures!

Want to read more?  Here's a firsthand account of a stunning truffle lunch at Auberge de la Truffe!

Want a laugh at some truffle trivia?

• The number of days that a freshly-picked truffle remains fresh? Answer: 10 days.
• How to keep truffles fresh for longer than that? Answer: Slice into thin strips, drizzle with olive oil, cover with plastic and freeze.
• Why Italians pick their prized Alba white truffles at night? Answer: So that their neighbor’s can’t see them.
• Foods that truffles pair best with? Answer: Neutral ones, like potatoes, rice, pasta, salad and bread.
• Why female pigs make great truffle hunters? Answer: Truffles smell like the sex pheromone of boar saliva, a scent they find irresistible.
• Why dogs make better truffle hunters? Answer: They don’t try to eat the truffles (unlike pigs) and are easier to work with than sex-crazed sows                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

Have truffle vacation questions?                                                    I'm a phone call away and here to help with truffle travel! 

 Melanie @ Tough Love Travel:  (609) 923-0304!

Thank you, Janet, for introducing me to Auberge de la Truffe!