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Saturday, July 19, 2014

Isle Royale National Park: moose, wolves, and Esther Williams


For your customized UP Roadtrip, including to Isle Royale, grab a complimentary 20-minute planning session with Melanie Tucker, owner & chief designer at Tough Love Travel.

I went to Michigan's UP (or Upper Peninsula) on a cherry-picking mission.  What I discovered, though, were the wolves and moose of Isle Royale NP.


Getting to remote NPs is often a dilemma for the traveler.   How should you physically arrive at Isle Royale and why did you choose this method?
I was on a road trip from NJ, so I drove from Chicago, up through Michigan (that finger of land sticking north into the lake in this map) and across the UP, to the passenger ferry at Houghton where the Ranger III ferry swept us and our backpacks over to Rock Harbor - that strip of island in the NW part of the lake -  in just under 6 hours.   

What were the benefits as well as downsides of this arrival method?  
The ferry only runs on select days of the week, so timing is strict.

What other arrival methods did you consider, or have you heard about?
You can also train up to the ferry but the schedule is cumbersome.  Note that ferries also travel to Isle Royale from Copper Harbor as well as the Minnesota shore. 

If you have only one overnight in the park (2 days, 1 night), where would you stay and what would you do?









I'd grab a 60's-style motel room at the main lodge in Rock Harbor (NE corner of island), and spend my first evening on a short hike up to Lookout Louise, and in the interpretive center, learning about the wolf-and-moose population. 

On Day 2, I'd hop the water taxi down to Moskey, and then hike back, approximately 11 miles, along the spine and coasts of the island.

What is the optimal length of time to spend at the park in your opinion?
4 days would be a great treat!




Best wildlife viewing opportunity?
You will inevitably spot a moose as you hike the trails.   Though their numbers have fluctuated over the years due to ticks and disease, they remain abundant in the national park.
The wolves are a different story.  The original pack migrated over Lake Superior's ice during a particularly harsh winter in the 1940's, and they remain more elusive.  Their numbers were dwindling from inner-breeding until a new wolf arrived around 2000. 
Still, you may hear a howl in the dark of night!

Best of most unique meals/foods?
Cherries, fresh off the trees in August, were delicious, but an even more interesting food was the pasty (pronounced past-ee), a traditional meat pie imported to Michigan by the Cornish minters in the 1800's.

Best photography shot?
The dark green and deep blue shallow waters of the archipelago.

What problems have you encountered there (or heard of others encountering)?
Moose are extremely dangerous and not to be underestimated. 

What is the “rare find” within Isle Royale NP?
In the entire season, Isle Royale sees fewer visitors than Yellowstone sees in one day. 

It's difficult to find a more pristine and remote, yet accessible northern woods - and the crystal waters are invigorating!  To know that the wolf pack lurks just beyond the trees adds an element of thrill.

A special activity is to boat over to one of the many nearby islands, like Caribou, where you'll share the island with a mere handful of other campers at  remote sites. 

Extra tip?     Along the crest of the island are fire towers that you can climb for sweeping views of the national park and Lake Superior.







So where does Esther Williams come into this story?
Esther Williams Pool, before the Grand Hotel
Enroute to the Isle Royale ferry,  you'll pass though the isthmus connecting lower to upper Michigan.   There you will find the storied Grand Hotel, located on the pedestrian-only Mackinaw island. This lovely old-fashioned mansion has been featured in the movie Somewhere in Time, and today, you can not only stay there and sip your beverage from a rocker on the grand wrap-around porch, but you can also swim in their famous Esther Williams pool.


Have questions?  I am here to help.  You can reach me at (609)923-0304.

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